I removed the chains guides and tensioners before I turned the crank to the correct position.

I have read in other posts that you can turn the crank after the chains have been removed and ones that say you can't. I'm replacing all timing components and phasers. The cams turned as well when I removed the tension from the chains.

The dot on the bottom gear is about 1/4 turn past where it needs to be. Is it safe to turn the crank counter clockwise to get it to the correct position?
If not what should I do about getting the crank to the right spot?

Sorry for the post outside of the sticky thread but still not sure after going through it multiple times.

Thanks for any help and advice I just got my timing kit today so I'm hoping to get it back together this weekend.

 

First, I think that turning the crank with the chains on but the tensioners off is not a real problem, someone may chime in and say differently. Second, it really only takes a couple minutes if you had to put them back on to turn it.
Take a look at my albums and you should find a couple pics with the cam lobe position. They need to be pointing in the right direction and the timing tick mark pointing at 1:00 (check to make sure on that but I think its right). The colored links on the chain only line up every so often so, meaning, when putting new chains on, they have to all line up, after you turn the crank one full turn to verify that there is no valve contact, the colored links will be off.
Tom

 

So do you think turning the crank counterclockwise 1/4 turn to get the crank gear mark at 6o'clock would be OK?

 

Why don't you just take the advice that I gave and turn it the right way instead of counter clockwise? If you are that worried about it, put the timing arms and tensioners back on and turn it till the timing mark and the cam lobes are right then take it back apart, takes maybe 15 minutes. Where are you getting the 6 oclock info from, timing mark should be at the 1 oclock if memory serves me. 6 oclock does not ring a bell.

 

Timing dot on the crank gear goes at the 6 position the keyway goes at the 11 from everything I have read.

 

You were right about the timing mark on most things I posted. I have watched and read so much stuff it's all running together.

I got the 6 oclock position from this video with the ford tool which I used.

I have attached pics after i put the chains on if anyone sees anything out of place please let me know.
Thanks for the help and advice!
wtmjr





Right phaser





Right chain on crank





Left chain on crank





Left phaser





New components installed.

 

It looks great from the pics, did you verify the cam lobe positions? Look in my albums here for the cam lobe positions. After that has been verified, make sure that you rotate the engine by hand at the crank with a socket to make sure that no valves come in contact with the pistons. You will know if they do because it will get really hard if not impossible to turn by hand. Don't worry about the links not lining up afterwards because it takes a lot of complete turns for that to happen. Before putting the cover on, don't forget the reluctor ring in front of the crank gear, the teeth should point outwards toward the cover then put everything back together. Before you start the engine, hold the gas pedal down and crank for about 8-10 seconds, do this 3 or 4 times to build up oil pressure in the tensioners so you don't jump a tooth. Let us know how it goes.

Tom

 

Well got it back together running last night. The good it fixed my timing problem both cam sensors plugged in and no timing codes and does feel like it has more power under acceleration at higher rpm.

The bad the miss I have been chasing is still there. Been driving it trying to get it to throw codes. No luck so far. Pretty disheartening

 

COPs or plugs, start the engine, unplug each COP plug connection one at a time, if its good, the idle should change, if it is bad the idle should stay the same. Thats how I found a bad cop that didn't throw a code. If all test good, do the same with the fuel injectors, that will identify a bad injector if you have a bad one. Check the connectors to the COPs and fuel injectors as well, you may have to break out a multimeter and the manual for that one though. Have you changed the fuel filter lately? How is the fuel module on the back frame by the spare tire, they corrode bad and can cause issues.
Good luck
Tom

 

When does the misfire occur? How old are the plugs? How old are the cop boots?