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Old Dec 25, 2016 | 11:50 AM
  #21  
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plug in a code reader.
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Old Dec 25, 2016 | 12:03 PM
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Thought about both of those, but nothing's open today. Just went and swapped relays under the hood and still nothing. And I don't have my spare keys to see if maybe mine lost programming. Thinking I'll just have to suck it up and get it towed to the dealership tomorrow
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Old Dec 25, 2016 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by fseries54303
Thought about both of those, but nothing's open today. Just went and swapped relays under the hood and still nothing. And I don't have my spare keys to see if maybe mine lost programming. Thinking I'll just have to suck it up and get it towed to the dealership tomorrow
Do not know your electrical system type but you can get 9 volt battery operated plugs for the cigarette holder cheep to keep the settings in the body control module when you disconnect the battery but that has nothing to do with your fix. Usually a low charge/dead starting battery will cause symptoms you have. Hooking up a relay backward may drain a battery. Usually it takes a power relay to do that. Walmart has fairly cheep code readers, do they open back up this afternoon ? No code would mean you didn't blow up anything much major so a big electronics bill isn't there for you. Maybe just the post clamp on the battery cable ? A HEC test on your cluster, and navigate it could answer some of you r voltage questions. If the Cluster passes it means even better news. It also shows your operating voltages shut down and running. You go into HEC test with the buttons on the steering wheel. HEC doesn't change anything it just allows you a lot of knowledge you cant find any place else.

Last edited by papa tiger; Dec 25, 2016 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Dec 25, 2016 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by papa tiger
Do not know your electrical system type but you can get 9 volt battery operated plugs for the cigarette holder cheep to keep the settings in the body control module when you disconnect the battery but that has nothing to do with your fix. Usually a low charge/dead starting battery will cause symptoms you have. Hooking up a relay backward may drain a battery. Usually it takes a power relay to do that. Walmart has fairly cheep code readers, do they open back up this afternoon ? No code would mean you didn't blow up anything much major so a big electronics bill isn't there for you. Maybe just the post clamp on the battery cable ? A HEC test on your cluster, and navigate it could answer some of you r voltage questions. If the Cluster passes it means even better news. It also shows your operating voltages shut down and running. You go into HEC test with the buttons on the steering wheel. HEC doesn't change anything it just allows you a lot of knowledge you cant find any place else.
Thanks for the tip. I just went outside to try the HEC/engineering mode test by holding down the left arrow button on the steering wheel and then turning the key to the run position, but the battery warning pops up right away and the service advance trac warning pop up and won't let me get into the test mode.
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Old Dec 25, 2016 | 07:49 PM
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Odds are the battery low voltage is the problem. Do you have a volt meter. It should read a minimum 12 or more volts an look at your cable posts. Wish you could plug in a code reader. Maybe tomorrow?

Last edited by papa tiger; Dec 25, 2016 at 07:54 PM.
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Old Dec 25, 2016 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by papa tiger
Ofds are the battery is the problem.

I'm hoping so! Well it's definitely under warranty being only a few months old, and I purchased it and had it installed at the dealership. So maybe it'll just cost me the tow over there and nothing else
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Old Dec 25, 2016 | 08:07 PM
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I went out and put the digital volt meter on the battery and it's reading 11.8v and didn't change when I tried to start the truck. Still no change.
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 09:35 AM
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At the dealership now, will post when problem figured out
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 11:34 AM
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Good luck.
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 12:36 PM
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All fixed. Was a broken wire. Thanks everyone for the advice and help
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