Validation of Cost
Fun part is that they haven't yet found what the real problem is... drove it about 2-3 miles and suddenly the squeal (which sounds like brakes, perhaps a stuck caliper, or maybe a ujoint but it is too random to be a ujoint) started again... By the time I made it back to the dealership with the truck... it stopped.
The squeal is nutty.... Happens randomly, usually after the car has been driven for 45 min or so... Then will last a long time. Increases with speed, stops when hitting the brake pedal. Then randomly disappears
But they gave me a loaner so we shall see...
Question, is the squeak from the front or rear? Looks to sound like the front because you direct the video there.
The front has nothing to do with the ebrake. It's locks the rears. Cable releases it! Spring loaded. (Usually) If its the front is there something more your not tellin. What happened in Feb with the brakes you mention in page 2?
If it's from the rear,
Damaged components?
Its possible to say if your ebrake release cable was broke, then you didn't release it when you thought. By moving with the ebrake locked the pressure at the pads is what made the clunk noise. Then as you drove it wore the pad enough to not grab like that. Continuing on you scored the rotors more and probably damage the components from driving around with the rear depressed causing it to over heat and warp, now making it stick intermittently
Just a thought.
The front has nothing to do with the ebrake. It's locks the rears. Cable releases it! Spring loaded. (Usually) If its the front is there something more your not tellin. What happened in Feb with the brakes you mention in page 2?
If it's from the rear,
Damaged components?
Its possible to say if your ebrake release cable was broke, then you didn't release it when you thought. By moving with the ebrake locked the pressure at the pads is what made the clunk noise. Then as you drove it wore the pad enough to not grab like that. Continuing on you scored the rotors more and probably damage the components from driving around with the rear depressed causing it to over heat and warp, now making it stick intermittently
Just a thought.
Last edited by Allquad; May 19, 2015 at 12:49 PM.
Just know that disassembly may not go as planned, my 2000 F-150 had that happen and the internal components of the E-brake were rusted to the point that the dealership had to use a cutting torch to cut the rotor off (on one side) in order to replace the E-brake internal components. Luckily mine was still under warranty and the towing was free.
Nick
Seems resolved but the 750 they wanted for the boost pump was crazy So part is on its way from amazon. Will report back after first long trip
People in this thread have no idea how the emergency brake system works.
IT IS A SEPARATE COMPONENT TO YOUR USUAL REAR BRAKES. The price "you paid" to get your rear brakes done is a COMPLETELY different thing than OPs E-brake system.
As one posted earlier $800 for genuine parts and labor sounds right.
IT IS A SEPARATE COMPONENT TO YOUR USUAL REAR BRAKES. The price "you paid" to get your rear brakes done is a COMPLETELY different thing than OPs E-brake system.
As one posted earlier $800 for genuine parts and labor sounds right.







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