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Which Transfer Case?

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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 02:04 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by arshooter
No, Lockers or locked axles are what causes the binding when turning. Most 4x4 vehicles don't come standard with any kind of locker and they can turn freely on a hard surface, the old *****'s jeeps are a good example. OTOH some cars, particularly those set up for drag racing are only 2 wheel drive but still use a locker in the rear axle to get the absolute most traction.

In the Ford trucks you could get 4x4 trucks that didn't have (standard) lockers or FX-4s that included lockers.

All of that said, there are different types of lockers and some are manually controlled, some are electronically controlled (like the FX-4s), and some like Ford's new 4A are controlled automatically.

Four wheel drive (which is really just means 2 driven axles and not necessary all four wheels being driven) vs 2 wheel drive and the subject of lockers are really two different things.

FYI, if you take a look at most four wheel drive vehicles such as the old ****** jeep, you'll see that both the front and the rear axles are open carrier designs, which means that if one wheel is off of the ground or is slipping due to being on say, mud, then all of the torgue goes to that wheel and there is no traction from that axle. But since in 4x4 mode, both axles are being driven most of time you still get traction from the other axle. But if you're in a large mud hole or on ice or if one wheel on each axle is off of the ground, then you won't have ANY traction. That's where lockers come into play, adding a locker to the one axle will guarantee that both wheels on that axle are being driven so increasing your chance of having traction from that axle. Add a locker to both axles and now all four wheels are being driven and even if three of them are slipping due to mud, ice, etc, then you still have one wheel providing traction.
I'm sorry, i wasn't clear with this, when i say locking the axle speeds together, i mean just that, not locking the diffs, i do have the ELD on mine so that's an option for me. However, as i understand it, the way a 4x4 system works, is it locks the speed of the front and rear axles together, which is why you experience binding in the drivetrain when you start turning on dry pavement.
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 02:22 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by rednblues
Wow. I just read all of these responses and I am confused...but only about their answers.

I have 4A on my F150 and have had 4x4's for 35+years. Understand that with this transfercase, you CAN drive on hard pavement in 2H and 4A but not 4H or 4L. In those last two positions, the case will bind just like any other conventional case. Lockers make no difference.

If yours does not bind white turning on hard pavement in 4H or 4L, I suspect that you have a failing IWE.

I hope that answers your question .
Yeah, i'm still a little uncertain on *exactly* how this TOD case differs, i *think* i've got the gist, but because i'm diagnosing a potential issue on mine, i wanted to confirm the way it works specifically, and honestly, if anyone with experience of this TOD case could chime in, i'd welcome it.

Mine does not feel like it binds when in 4hi, at least, to my incredibly short experience of a real 4x4 system - i have a locking rear diff, so in 2hi, when i lock that, it very quickly and obviously starts binding the moment i start to steer when on dry pavement. I don't know if this is more, or less of the effect i would get when in 4hi in the same situation.

When i try 4hi, i barely feel any difference at all, however, i fully checked my hubs and vacuum system, the hub circuit (measured from the connection at the solenoid) held a full 15.5hg for a couple of minutes without deviation, the hubs unlocked at this time. The solenoid output is 26hg and the check valve only blows one way.
In short, i'm pretty confident my hubs are (dis)engaging correctly. But i agree, it seems to act like one of them isn't engaging in 4hi, which would allow bind-free turning, right?


There is a noise that comes from the front of my truck, no matter what drive mode i'm in, it's like a constant dry bearing-like noise, can be heard as speed gets to 15mph and higher, doesn't change with cornering or any other action.
See video, starts off in 2hi, moves to 4a, then to 2hi, then to 4hi, the modes changes as i slow to a stop. There is no wind audible in the video and top speed driven is 25mph, the noise you're listening for actually sounds like wind in the video.


Last edited by [F2C]MaDMaXX; Jun 20, 2020 at 02:25 PM.
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 09:17 AM
  #43  
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You might want to check your IWE and make sure they are working correctly. Also check for torn boots and jack it up and check for any bearing slop in the front end.
For the way the front dif is driven in 4 auto and 4 high is kind of the difference between limited slip being the the 4A, traction control senses the right wheel spinning and kicks in the left, The 4A is the the speed sensors from the front and back end of the transfer case picking up different speeds and the clutches going to the front start locking, The IWE's should already be locked in the front end when you put the switch to 4A. 4H is like a locker, it locks the clutches going to the front so it doesn't slip
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 12:29 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Siber Express
You might want to check your IWE and make sure they are working correctly. Also check for torn boots and jack it up and check for any bearing slop in the front end.
For the way the front dif is driven in 4 auto and 4 high is kind of the difference between limited slip being the the 4A, traction control senses the right wheel spinning and kicks in the left, The 4A is the the speed sensors from the front and back end of the transfer case picking up different speeds and the clutches going to the front start locking, The IWE's should already be locked in the front end when you put the switch to 4A. 4H is like a locker, it locks the clutches going to the front so it doesn't slip
As far as i can tell, the IWE's are working ok - They both lock when i engage 4a or 4hi/lo with the wheels jacked up and manually rotating the wheel. No torn boots that i could see and no bearing slop on the 12 & 6 test.

At this point, i'm still to be able to further confirm the 4hi is fully driving the front wheels, due to no obvious binding when turning on dry pavement in 4hi - but i'm going to go and test that again (last tested during test drive) and also drive a friends regular 4x4 F150 to see how that binds on dry pavement.
The noise is what's getting me right now too, hopefully everyone can hear in the video what i'm talking about?
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 04:53 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by [F2C]MaDMaXX
Would you say that the binding on dry pavement in 4hi, feels similar to the binding you feel on dry pavement in 2hi with the rear locker engaged?
A little. I think the full locker in the rear is more dramatic. Really haven't done that much, so vague memories. Last time I experienced binding was an accident, brushed the dial and it flipped to 4H just before doing a u-turn. I thought I had broken something up front until I realized it was in 4H and I stopped. Got a nasty clunk going back into 2H that time, not something I recommend.
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 04:53 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by [F2C]MaDMaXX
As far as i can tell, the IWE's are working ok - They both lock when i engage 4a or 4hi/lo with the wheels jacked up and manually rotating the wheel. No torn boots that i could see and no bearing slop on the 12 & 6 test.

At this point, i'm still to be able to further confirm the 4hi is fully driving the front wheels, due to no obvious binding when turning on dry pavement in 4hi - but i'm going to go and test that again (last tested during test drive) and also drive a friends regular 4x4 F150 to see how that binds on dry pavement.
The noise is what's getting me right now too, hopefully everyone can hear in the video what i'm talking about?
Not I, I wear hearing aids and if I am not getting it live I normally can't hear it in a video, just certain recorded noises that they don't pick up.
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 05:07 PM
  #47  
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Switch to 4lo and slowly and cautiously steer on drive pavement. Can you feel any binding? That is what you're looking for in 4h.

I cant turn into my driveway in 4h without noticing it. If I feel it bind I can increase the turning radius (larger circle) and at least get out of the street.

If you are driving on 4h on dry payment and it feels like 2wd, either you're not able to tell (personally not in tune), which I doubt of you, or it's not binding.

What I'm trying to say is there shouldn't be a way for you have to guess if it is binding.

Consider it similar to a new threads that says "Hey guys, I feel this weird feeling in my front end, like my tires are skipping, is this wrong. Also it only happens in 4x4 mode". So if a person next experiencing 4x4 mode is asking why it feels weird, I KNOW you will have to know the difference.

I've never heard of a full 4x4 system that allows full use on drive pavement (not to be confused with AWD which is meant for that).

Go to a street or parking lot and turn 90 degress, like you wish to park or pull into a driveway. In 4h, you should be feeling something that isn't 'smooth'. I'm not worried about sounds, etc. I'm simply saying to drive like that and determine how it feels.

Go to the beach or a dirt road. Stand on the throttle from a stop. Are there marks on the ground from the front tires?
You will never know, from driving and watching axles, if 4x4 is engaging properly.
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 10:08 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Spiky
A little. I think the full locker in the rear is more dramatic. Really haven't done that much, so vague memories. Last time I experienced binding was an accident, brushed the dial and it flipped to 4H just before doing a u-turn. I thought I had broken something up front until I realized it was in 4H and I stopped. Got a nasty clunk going back into 2H that time, not something I recommend.
Yeah, the Elocker is very obvious, barely deviate from a straight line and it's bucking and kicking up at the rear!

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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 10:10 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 16IngotFX4
Switch to 4lo and slowly and cautiously steer on drive pavement. Can you feel any binding? That is what you're looking for in 4h.

I cant turn into my driveway in 4h without noticing it. If I feel it bind I can increase the turning radius (larger circle) and at least get out of the street.

If you are driving on 4h on dry payment and it feels like 2wd, either you're not able to tell (personally not in tune), which I doubt of you, or it's not binding.

What I'm trying to say is there shouldn't be a way for you have to guess if it is binding.

Consider it similar to a new threads that says "Hey guys, I feel this weird feeling in my front end, like my tires are skipping, is this wrong. Also it only happens in 4x4 mode". So if a person next experiencing 4x4 mode is asking why it feels weird, I KNOW you will have to know the difference.

I've never heard of a full 4x4 system that allows full use on drive pavement (not to be confused with AWD which is meant for that).

Go to a street or parking lot and turn 90 degress, like you wish to park or pull into a driveway. In 4h, you should be feeling something that isn't 'smooth'. I'm not worried about sounds, etc. I'm simply saying to drive like that and determine how it feels.

Go to the beach or a dirt road. Stand on the throttle from a stop. Are there marks on the ground from the front tires?
You will never know, from driving and watching axles, if 4x4 is engaging properly.
I think i'll try the 4lo now, trucks outside and i have to move/unload it (took family for a drive today with a bunch of picnic stuff loaded up)

Do you think it will need a 90deg turn to feel? (i ask because the Elocker only needs a slight deviation to really feel it buck)
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 10:13 PM
  #50  
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So today's outing gave me some smooth roads with curves on them instead of outright corners, it gave me left and rights at ~25+ mph - on left hand curves it was same noise as a straight line, but on right hand curves, the grating noise got louder..... Soooo looking at a ~$200 bearing/hub now Still doesn't wobble top to bottom, but it sure sounds knackered.

Anyone recommend any bearing over another? Looks like i can get Motorcraft for ~$230 and a Timkin for ~$195 - i trust Timkin bearings, but making sure there wasn't some funny experience someone had?
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