Which Transfer Case?
I think i'll try the 4lo now, trucks outside and i have to move/unload it (took family for a drive today with a bunch of picnic stuff loaded up)
Do you think it will need a 90deg turn to feel? (i ask because the Elocker only needs a slight deviation to really feel it buck)
Do you think it will need a 90deg turn to feel? (i ask because the Elocker only needs a slight deviation to really feel it buck)
Only from what I've read -Ford bearings are the best replacement. I didn't realize Timken manufactured a hub assembly though.
Tasca parts online seems to have reasonable prices.
Not trying to spend your money, but maybe purchase new IWE and replace both parts. That will be good for you but bad for all of us (and you) because we'll never know what the problem was.

Glad you had a chance to get out and enjoy the truck today!
Probably didn't notice Timkin did one because they named it poorly on Amazon - i like that it's a sealed unit that's pre-greased, from what i saw on Fordtech you have to grease the other ones.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So i took the truck out again and tried to confirm the bearing test around the neighbourhood, managed to pretty legit confirmations whilst not causing a lot of tyre scrub noises, it for sure feels solid and, dare i say, marginally quieter "swerving" to the left, and noticeably a little louder when "swerving" to the right.
I also tried to do some 4hi and 4 low test, and honestly, it was really hard, i couldn't get much discernible binding or noise, even on a tightish turn. Jumped in friends 2015 and tried it, and it's really far more subtle than locking the rear diff, that takes nothing before you hear it binding. This was much more subtle, and whilst maybe slightly stiffer steering, it was more a little noise that much tyre &driveline binding - however, what it did highlight, was that the noise my bearing is making, and the little rumble it's giving (scraping) is basically masking most of what i think i should i feeling/hearing in 4hi.
4hi feels a little louder now, i'm thinking that's because the knackered bearing is now under driveline load Vs. 2hi
I did manage to get some kind of binding when i turned into my friends driveway which was quite steep and needed more gas to get up, that caused some binding alright!
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So i took the truck out again and tried to confirm the bearing test around the neighbourhood, managed to pretty legit confirmations whilst not causing a lot of tyre scrub noises, it for sure feels solid and, dare i say, marginally quieter "swerving" to the left, and noticeably a little louder when "swerving" to the right.
I also tried to do some 4hi and 4 low test, and honestly, it was really hard, i couldn't get much discernible binding or noise, even on a tightish turn. Jumped in friends 2015 and tried it, and it's really far more subtle than locking the rear diff, that takes nothing before you hear it binding. This was much more subtle, and whilst maybe slightly stiffer steering, it was more a little noise that much tyre &driveline binding - however, what it did highlight, was that the noise my bearing is making, and the little rumble it's giving (scraping) is basically masking most of what i think i should i feeling/hearing in 4hi.
4hi feels a little louder now, i'm thinking that's because the knackered bearing is now under driveline load Vs. 2hi
I did manage to get some kind of binding when i turned into my friends driveway which was quite steep and needed more gas to get up, that caused some binding alright!
Sounds like you need one of these to really pin point your sound issue. They have a long wire to run inside your cab while you drive around.
Sounds like you need one of these to really pin point your sound issue. They have a long wire to run inside your cab while you drive around.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The noise is consistent with that kind of sound too, so hopefully the replacement arrives soon and i can get it swapped out!
So I’m wondering. My new f150 stx has the spot for the 4A button, a 3.73 rr locking axle and what would appear to be the necessary wiring to have 4A mode but, it’s not “currently equipped “ I’m assuming I have the correct transfer case and I’m just curious if anybody knows; is it as simple as installing the switch and doing a computer reprogram to activate it on my truck. I apologize if I am asking a dumb question but I am new to actually owning a truck, it’s my first one .
@Themonky Well you have given us zero useful information about your truck, but I suspect since you said 4A "button" you are talking about a newer truck. This particular section is specific to the 12th gen 09-14 trucks.







