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In the last 3 days my truck started running badly then displayed a wrench. I had to pull over and stop my truck then restart to get the problem to clear.
Each time it happened I had my ODBII connected so I pulled the Diagnostic codes.
Using my Torque app I got two codes: P2112 and P2111
Using the internet lookup from Torque P2112 is:
"Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Closed"
Further details:
The Engine Control Unit (ECU) detects the throttle plate actuator stuck closed and triggers a Check Engine Light to be set on the dashboard. In addition to the Check Engine Light, the ECU sets a failsafe mode for all engine settings that will remain until the fault is resolved or the code is repaired.
So this forces the ECU to set a limp mode. On an Ecoboost this translate to: Run like crap.
The second code was P2111.
Again using Torque to look up the code I got:
"Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Open"
Further details:
This code is set when the PCM sees the throttle plate sticking in an open position. Usually this is due to a faulty TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). If this code is set and the throttle plate is actually stuck open, there will be other codes set and the TPS may actually be relaying the correct information to the computer.
Again sets a limp mode and truck runs like crap until I stop the engine and restart.
Her is my steps to correct the problem: 1. Pick up can of Throttle body cleaner.
2. Remove the throttle body and clean the throttle body.
3. Before reinstalling the TB I decided to remove the four screws on the side cover and inspect the stepper motor and system that controls the throttle plate.
Here is what I found:
So turns out the root cause for the P2112 and P211 codes was the fact the two gears in the photo were wore out.
I could move the gear, and it would not move the throttle plate sometimes.
I tried moving (re-indexing) the floating gear so good teeth were against the worn gear on the throttle shaft. No dice.
No quick/easy repair. You cannot buy the gears themselves either.
I bought a OEM replacement TB from Ford. I noted they look identical, but, it appears the new TB has a revised part number.
It appears the gears in my original TB were made from nylon. My 2102 F150 only has 101,000 mile the TB should be designed to last longer than 100K.
In my opinion Ford used incorrect materials for the gears. Hopefully Ford replaced the gear materials with something more robust in the new TB.
For those that may be wondering...changing the TB is easy. It is located right in front of the engine in the engine compartment.
Remove the air intake Y connected to the filter box, four bolts on the TB and the wiring harness connector.
Took me about 30 minutes for R&R.
to have the ECU relearn new settings for the new TB.
My truck now runs great!
Hopefully this helps others to fix their truck if they run into this problem.
Bottom line it appears if you get a P2112 and or a P2111 code, cleaning the TB will not likely correct the problem. You will likely have to replace the TB. There are aftermarket parts available from favorite local parts store.
I am skeptical that they are as good as OEM. FYI...online Ford parts websites had a new TB for ~ $106 to ~ $108 if you can wait for it to be shipped. I needed my truck for work on Monday so I had to pay more at my local Ford dealer. I did manage to get $25 knocked off after quoting online prices to the parts department. Changing it my self saved labor cost that are probably over $95/hour and up to 2 hours.
Yup
I have a thread on here from 2014 I think.
I have replaced xxx of these on my 2013 F150 ecoboost
11/20/2014 - 60,000 miles, covered by ESP warranty, $100 deductible
12/31/2014 - 70,000 miles, covered by ESP warranty, $100 deductible. Note - I got majorly f*cked over by Ford because first 2 shops changed ECM, computer, TPS and lots of other crap over Christmas week because they didn't (read WOULDN'T) believe that a TB would die after less than 10,000 miles. This cluster cost me about a thousand in hotels and missed Christmas with my family
09/05/2017 - 114,800 miles, covered by ESP warranty, $100 deductible
09/25/2018 - 151,000 miles, out of warranty. Bought for about $119 at autozone
05/25/2019 - 180,000 miles, out of warranty. Bough the upgraded "lifetime warranty" throttle body at Autozone for $138. They record under my phone number and I can bring in this one if it fails (or when it fails)
Overall I like the truck, but pretty disappointed with this repeated failure.
This is the 6th throttle body in this pickup in 180k miles (original plus 5 replacements)
All other maintenance is up to date.
Pretty disappointing that a part that should probably last 100k plus miles is averaging about 30k MTBF.
I just this morning ordered an upgraded (BBK) TB for my ‘13 EB. Sporadic wrench light and limp mode but NO codes found. I’m running a throttle enhancer and a tune which is probably the cause but with 90k on the odo, I figure it’s time to replace the whole unit due to the nylon gearset. From what I understand, if it’s a problem with the electronics. The outer cover with the stator ( I think that’s what it’s called) can be purchased separately now.
Note: the BBK unit I ordered uses the same nylon gears and cover as OEM. Wonder how long it will last?
I replaced the throttle body unit. Let the vehicle idle (I disconnected the battery) for only a few minutes and then drove it around the block and a few miles out and back. No issues.
My kid jumps in it, takes off and gets four miles down the road and the truck starts throwing codes and acting up shimmies and jumps. Says the throttle actuator is open.
Do I have a bad replacement part? Did it not learn the proper re-idle ?
Help!!
Not particularly relevant to your particular situation. meaning: Rather than hijacking an existing thread, you would be more betterer served initiating one.
You don't provide the DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes).
Vehicle information... Since you opt not to provide it, put your complete vehicle information (year, model, cab, trim, engine, wheelbase, _x4 drive, mileage, maintenance, modifications, etc., etc.) in your signature. *Eliminates playing 20 questions when/if a post is made pertaining to your vehicle. »Edit Signature«*Don't forget to [ save ] it.
In the last 3 days my truck started running badly then displayed a wrench. I had to pull over and stop my truck then restart to get the problem to clear.
Each time it happened I had my ODBII connected so I pulled the Diagnostic codes.
Using my Torque app I got two codes: P2112 and P2111
Using the internet lookup from Torque P2112 is:
"Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Closed"
Further details:
The Engine Control Unit (ECU) detects the throttle plate actuator stuck closed and triggers a Check Engine Light to be set on the dashboard. In addition to the Check Engine Light, the ECU sets a failsafe mode for all engine settings that will remain until the fault is resolved or the code is repaired.
So this forces the ECU to set a limp mode. On an Ecoboost this translate to: Run like crap.
The second code was P2111.
Again using Torque to look up the code I got:
"Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Open"
Further details:
This code is set when the PCM sees the throttle plate sticking in an open position. Usually this is due to a faulty TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). If this code is set and the throttle plate is actually stuck open, there will be other codes set and the TPS may actually be relaying the correct information to the computer.
Again sets a limp mode and truck runs like crap until I stop the engine and restart.
Her is my steps to correct the problem: 1. Pick up can of Throttle body cleaner.
2. Remove the throttle body and clean the throttle body.
3. Before reinstalling the TB I decided to remove the four screws on the side cover and inspect the stepper motor and system that controls the throttle plate.
Here is what I found:
So turns out the root cause for the P2112 and P211 codes was the fact the two gears in the photo were wore out.
I could move the gear, and it would not move the throttle plate sometimes.
I tried moving (re-indexing) the floating gear so good teeth were against the worn gear on the throttle shaft. No dice.
No quick/easy repair. You cannot buy the gears themselves either.
I bought a OEM replacement TB from Ford. I noted they look identical, but, it appears the new TB has a revised part number.
It appears the gears in my original TB were made from nylon. My 2102 F150 only has 101,000 mile the TB should be designed to last longer than 100K.
In my opinion Ford used incorrect materials for the gears. Hopefully Ford replaced the gear materials with something more robust in the new TB.
For those that may be wondering...changing the TB is easy. It is located right in front of the engine in the engine compartment.
Remove the air intake Y connected to the filter box, four bolts on the TB and the wiring harness connector.
Took me about 30 minutes for R&R.
My truck now runs great!
Hopefully this helps others to fix their truck if they run into this problem.
Bottom line it appears if you get a P2112 and or a P2111 code, cleaning the TB will not likely correct the problem. You will likely have to replace the TB. There are aftermarket parts available from favorite local parts store.
I am skeptical that they are as good as OEM. FYI...online Ford parts websites had a new TB for ~ $106 to ~ $108 if you can wait for it to be shipped. I needed my truck for work on Monday so I had to pay more at my local Ford dealer. I did manage to get $25 knocked off after quoting online prices to the parts department. Changing it my self saved labor cost that are probably over $95/hour and up to 2 hours.
- Mike
Throttle Position Sensor
I have a 2006 F150,/FX4 with the 5.4 Triton, it has just over 130k on it and I just completed a full timing job on it Thursday, my first experience with phaser Engine! I did everything just as directed, and man what a difference, it sounds nothing like the truck when I bought it, it would have easily passed for a 7.3 Powerstroke!! Right phaser had a broken spring, left chain was super loose and beating on the front cover, the oil pump was weak and both guides were broken. It was very clean on the inside of the engine though, all the roller followers are new it cranked right up after I spun it until it built oil pressure, I plugged the Cps back in and hit the key and it fired right up, however the truck has had no.power to speak of since I got done with it, found out the TPS is not only bad, but has fallen apart!! I bought this truck back in early May knowing it needed a timing job. Since I got it the trick has jerked and sputtered, seems the TPS has been bad this entire time. It went into limp mode and won't come out die to the bad TPS, im pretty positive its the TPS as I took the screws out and moved it around while the engine was running and it tried to rev up the best I have ever heard it sound.its super quiet now, other than the Magna Flo exhaust!! I'm just gonna replace the entire throttle body in the morning..today was a Holiday and I didn't feel like driving the 10/miles to town, the tips that is on it is I assume the original part, says it was made in 06, 2005!! Probably done paid for its self many Times!! It actually came apart in my hand after I removed it from the TB!! I really pray this new throttle body solves this issue because im ready to actually drive the truck seeing as its been on the DL since I got it in May!!
Throttle Body
Since you opt not to provide it, put your complete vehicle information (year, model, cab, trim, engine, wheelbase, _x4 drive, mileage, maintenance, modifications, etc., etc.) in your signature. *Eliminates playing 20 questions when/if a post is made pertaining to your vehicle.