Thanks guys for all the prayers. I did not mean to get something started ..I did take it in to the dealer but the dealer I bought the truck from are very sloppy and do more damage then good so I was going to a friend on mine that works a national dent he told me yesterday that it was like you guys said and he told me he could fix it fairly easy. Thanks guys for everything.

 

Hard time matching what? The color or the clear? Is the clear flat? As in texture? Or sheen?

 

 

Looks like a bit of everything huh? You're right. The color is miss matched, tons of swirls too. And is that sand scratch swelling in the top circle?

Painting just one panel close to another isn't exactly cut and dry these days, with all these new metallics around. But...(remember this is coming from someone with 14 years of painting experience) green gem is not a difficult color to match. In fact, in our paint system at my work there are no variants. Standard formula only. Hope you can get it all figured out.

 

Mubullock.

I'm not an expert at describing paint features so you will have to interpret my description of what I'm seeing.

This photo is next day after I got it home from into the dealer’s body shop. At home, more favorable light conditions and viewing angles revealed otherwise. The horizontal reflections are of another parked beside my truck. Also there was an oily substance resembling the Turtle wax ‘Ice” that I washed off onthe next day, dried it off then viewed the door with an 8am sun shining straight on it. I did not get a photo then but that view showed the most and the worst, that's what I showed the dealer on the next morning at 8:15am.

More discrepancies can be seen by the naked eye than I can get on the photo.

Color- The F150 Green Gem seems to me to have personality. A lot of depth and brilliance. 90% of the door surface was repainted from the very front edge to within 8 inches of the back edge. The front edge does not match the quarter panel. At the back end of the door it fades out some8 inches before the edge. It appears as a lighter/brighter shade of green and seems to have a higher content of metal flake.

Clear coat- I don’t knowif it’s the clear coat alone or other factors that add to its depth and luster but that feature is defiantly missing on the repainted surface. Seems thin, making the green flat or dull.

The swirl marks are bad, a dozen or more running vertically on the entire door and one on the quarter panel. They are like ribbons ¼ to 1 inch wide and 6to 15 inches long, seems to shift or move as you walk by. Not visible in the shade or when viewed at a sharp angle.

Texture- All is smooth to the touch except one area (in photo) in front of the mirror, the repaired dent was 15inches below the mirror. The repair or the dime/quarter size outie dent left only a shallow wave about 5 inches long and can only be seen at certain angles and depending what the surface is reflecting.

The swirls they said could be worked out and I think they can if they use better lighting to see them with.

Their solution for the color was to blend the door paint at the front over and onto the quarter panel. I said absolutely not. Do not put this paint onto the perfectly good factory paint. That would not correct anything, only make the bad area larger. Years ago I had a Dakota door, hood and roof painted(green too), no blending.

So they are going to request a DuPont Paint Specialist to look at it and see if he can match the paint.

Maybe I can’t get a new factory painted door, but I’ll keep asking “why not”until they produce something just as good.

 

the paint guy said he has 2 variants, maybe one is a home-brew he used on me.

 

You have a nightmare, I am sorry you are going through this with a new truck. That's why I am not doing any paint work on my truck. I would make them start over sand it back to the primer and start over..

 

Jeez, where do i begin? Ok, first off not all body ships are equal. Some are better than others, some are waaaay better than others. Its shops like this that give the rest of us, that will do a great job, a bad name.

Swirl marks- I do believe that they can work these out. Sometimes you get under the gun and you rush, you can miss them. We use 3m's sun gun to check for them. After buffing we shine it on the panel and all swirls will be evident.

You said there was an oily residue? Sounds like they left a little polish on it to hide the swirls. This is just my theory though. We use 3m Buffing supplies. They have an amazing 3 step system that works very well. The final step is a blue colored polish. That stays wet. Meaning you can not buff it clean/dry. You polish, then you have to remove the residue with a micro fiber.(this is where you'd check it out with the sun gun) It is water soluble, so when it rains, it will wash off. And if they didn't correctly buff in the previous 2 steps your swirls will be there. The blue polish will hide swirls that were not removed before hand, until water hits it. Then you're killed with swirls.

I do not know that this is what they used, but this is my theory.

Front of the mirror- This part is weird to me. As in why does that section look funny? Hard to tell from your pic, but it looks like an "open blend." Meaning they just stopped clearing there, and tried to melt the new clear into the factory. This is a widely used practice and can be done successfully. Not so here though. Check around your mirror, and belt molding. Were they just taped off? Or did they remove them (this is the proper way to do it)? You will see bits of overspray if they were just taped. Some shops will blend the clear there, so they don't have to take ( its called r+i) anything off. It saves them money, but you sacrifice quality.

I don't know for a fact that this is what they did, this is what just what i get from the pic.

Color miss match- not knowing how the repair was handled, i have endless theories. They painted 90% of the door? For a dime sized outie dent? Why? Maybe the body tech made that repair area much larger than it should've been, and the painter had to paint that far in order to cover it. Or maybe the painter is simply inexperienced. Whatever the case, they clearly used the wrong color. Or they didn't mix it right. There are certain tints in colors that are designed to mute metallics to a certain degree. And overpouring those will mute metallics to much, resulting in bad color match.

We don't use Dupont at my shop, we use PPG waterbase. And for green gem code w6, there is only 1 formula.

Painting that close to the fender, without blending it, is a challenge. But not impossible. The smaller they kept the color, the shade variance probably wouldn't even be noticeable.

But now its a can of worms. They've taken the color too far now, and they're screwed. In order to paint it right, they want to blend it. You don't want that...i don't blame you.

I say you won't get a "new factory painted door" because, Ford (or any other manufacturer for that matter) does not pre paint sheet metal. Handles, mirrors, moldings? Sure sometimes they come in painted. But never sheet metal.

If they do say they will get you one, they're probably lying. They will get a new door. Which will be the black e-coat primer. They will paint it, and tell you, "yeah it came in painted." But then...will it match? Probably not.

If their plan of attack on this is not to your satisfaction, i think you are to the point of a second opinion, in my opinion. I know this sucks, but take it somewhere else. Have them check it out. If you are confident they can do it, have the original shop foot the bill. Its their responsibility. Really interested to see how they plan on fixing this.

From my standpoint, and for lack of a better term, they seem to have "painted themselves into a corner."

 

I noticed that the doors are flimsy when closing them...if you watch the lower door when you slam it shut, the entire outside skin flexes like it is being blown out from the inside of the truck. I thought I was crazy until I read this thread!

 

To put this point in perspective. Is the sheet metal thinner than the 70's, 80's, and 90's? Sure. But is it thinner than any other manufacturer? No. Its all the same gauge metal. Maybe its the way they are stamped, i don't know. But my '10 STX, does not have this flimsy issue many seem to have.