I have a lightbar that I have hooked up to my 4 pin plug on my trailer package. I'm trying to keep that hooked up but I wanna free that plug up to haul a jet ski and still have the lights in. I thought I could just get a t switch and split off the power but it's not gonna happen like I thought it would. The only splice with a junction is a 12 pin connection and couldn't find ANY plug like that at any auto store. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks

 

http://store.newlevelmotorsports.com/4pintrplsp4w.html

 

The plug splitter will work, or if you're mechanically inclined you can wire your light bar into your running light and tail light harness. Would be easy, I've done it alot of times. The easiest way is to get a couple scotch locks and attach them to the appropriate wires. This way the harness doesn't get all hacked up.

 

do not use any scotch lock crap or it will cease to work within a year, been there done that! The best way, and what I did to mine was to splice it into the wires in the wiring harness behind the plug by using solder and then a few coats of liquid tape to seal and protect the connections. Its kind of a pain to do but it will pay off in the end cause it will work forever. There is a cover on my trailer connection plug in that tell you what each wire does so that makes it easy to know which wire connects to which wire. Up on the frame rail there is a connection plug where i unplugged it and then you can drop that part of the wiring harness down for easier access for splitting the wires apart and soldering and liquid taping them. Solder is the only way to connect wires together, anything less will not last very long.

 

Sorry you never had luck with a scotch lock, if you apply the scotch lock correctly ( meaning install it, use dielectric grease to insulate it and then wrap it in tape) you should have no problems. Your way of doing it is pretty much permanent, what if he wants to take it off someday ? I've never had an issue using scotch locks for 25 years and it saves you from hacking up your wiring harness. Even Saleen and Roush both use scotch locks to attach add ons to the factory wiring harness. They must hold up pretty good, haven't seen many complaints about defective scotch lock installation from those guys.

 

I live in the north with lots of snow and travel to places where they use lots of salt, the tape doesn't hold up long under those conditions and moisture leaks in, corroding the wire and Scotch lock and then you lose connection. My way is much better, if you ever want to remove it for any reason just cut the wire off and apply a few coats of liquid tape or heatshrink to cover the end of the wire and done! Nothings getting at that wire. I guess I've only been using liquid tape for a year so I can't attest how it holds up 5 or 10 years down the road, but it appears to be a solid product, and certainly much better and longer lasting than regular tape under the worst of conditions. I spose location plays a part, where I had trouble was attaching light to running boards with the wire along the frame rail, not a good spot. In the location I described tape may hold up better, but I still solder all my connections now and use liquid tape and have never had a problem since.

 

For a solid sure connection, your way is the preferred method. Splice, solder and heat shrink. I was just thinking of a way he can do it so it wouldn't be so permanent and ease of install also. If he taps into the tail light harness that runs along the inside of the rear bumper he should be fine. The dieletric grease prevents corrosion and moisture from getting at the connection, it holds up pretty well. They use it on wiring connections for installing sprinkler systems in the ground.

 

Just think of all the puddles and car washes you go through, plus nightly condensation. I'm sure the grease would help, I didn't use any when I did it. Still I'd rather solder and know it will last forever.