2011 F150 Super Crew 3.5L

Door lock actuator doesn't work. Driver side rear door. New actuator doesn't work either. Didn't bolt it in but I tested it before removing the existing actuator. Flipped the latch on the new actuator and the LCD panel sensed the door closed.

Wiring diagram from online shows the circuit coming from the fuse box to the BCM. There seems to be internal and non-replaceable relays within the BCM. 1 relay for each door in the BCM.

Any suggestions? Unplug the battery to reset the BCM?

All other doors work. Replaced fuse for power doors 2x. I doubt the wiring harness went bad. What are the chances that the wire breaks midway through the vehicle and the the other wires (door closed sensor) work?

 

i had my dirver rear door not lock on me last week... i delt with doro ajar last winter. the wires in the door fray from time to time from a tube they use to keep the wires from binding but strips them..

https://www.f150forum.com/f38/2010-s...issues-219328/

this explains it, hope it helps

 

You are correct. This is the problem. Control wires in the door broke. Thank you for the quick response.

Photos attached for all those experiencing the same problem.

 

I had pretty much same issue with drivers rear door unable to unlock or lock due to 4 wires were cut off. Not enough shield keeping those wires from getting damaged!

I thought it was the door actuater, took it apart and tested it with 9v battery she's was good to go.

Took me few days to figure it out but saved me few hundreds of dollars lol

Here's a picture 2011 F150 5.0 Lariat

 

2012 Screw and just had my driver side rear door lock stop working. Popped the boot and just like this wires are just clean broken....insulation must get brittle and handle only so many cycles. Happy to find it but its silly that they are inside such a nice protective boot....but can't handle normal usage.

 

 

Butt connectors / splice/ solder and sheathing, shrink wrap! all will work!

 

Edit: sorry, didnt read that last message...

 

 

When looking for the broken wires, after pulling the rubber boot out of the door where was everyone's broken wire and was it easily seen or did you have to remove the door panel to see them? Just trying to figure out what the deal is on my truck. Neither of my rear doors work 100% of the time.....more like 1% of the time. So I'm trying to figure out if this is an electrical or mechanical issue. I will say, both of my locks when pulling them up manually seem to be more resistant than normal which makes me lean towards mechanical, but them working intermittently makes me think electrical. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.