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2010 SCrew rear door ajar issues.........

Old 07-22-2013, 01:15 PM
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Default 2010 SCrew rear door ajar issues.........

OK So I have a 2010 SCrew XLT 4x4, truck is stock except for the 2 1/2 inch leveling kit and add a leaf in the rear. A few months ago the right rear door power lock stopped working, now when rolling down the rear windows with the doors closed the door ajar message pops up on the dash for both right and left doors and long with interior lights. open and close the door, nothing happens.... run the windows up and down and the message flashes on and off...

Frustrates me because I wanted to order the truck with NO power windows or power locks... but the dealer said i could not get a F150 SCrew without power these power options.....
Old 07-22-2013, 02:27 PM
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If it was just the one door, i would guess the door latch sensor got stuck. U used to,be able to spray the latch real good with wd40, slam the door 8-10 times, and the plunger would unstick.

Sounds like maybe your lock broke, and might be dangling in the door. When the window goes up and down, it moves the wire and shorts it, triggering the alarm

I would take off the door panel, and if it's not a broken piece, it might be a broken wire going through the door boot, and if not that, then something with the central security module.

Small $$$ fix first. Wd40 and some slams, look in the door panel, look at the wire bundle...
Old 07-22-2013, 02:34 PM
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the right side rear door im sure its an actuator, i can live with out powerlocks seeming i didnt want them in the first place, I have the door panel off on the left cant find anything with the wiring and lubed the crap out of the latch with no success. Thanks of rthe help
Old 07-23-2013, 07:45 PM
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Been a slow day at work, pulled my truck into a back bay and double checked the wiring for breaks, had to strip the conduit off to find the issue.... On the left side that I had the door ajar warning from, Total there was 2 wires sheared off and 2 that were about to shear off. Ford runs a plastic stiffener inside the harness, and where it ends is where they broke. On the right I had 2 broken off at the plug that enters tha B post and 2 that were about to break.... Now fixed no more door ajar lights.. and all my power door locks work for now.
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:57 AM
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Cool. Thanks for updating, and nice job.
Old 08-08-2013, 03:52 PM
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Just a quick note that I experienced this same issue in my 09 SCrew today. I replaced the door latch assembly first ($118) which did not resolve the issue. Pulling back the rubber boot and the plastic wrap around the harness revealed 1 broken wire and 4 other wires that were crimped to the point that bare wire was exposed. I repaired all 5 wires and everything is now working as it should. It is definitely an issue with the plastic rod that is put in the harness to keep it straight. If it ever gets bent, it prevents the rubber boot from compressing and expanding as it should.

I guess I'll sell the original door latch assembly now that I know it was good and Ford won't take back the one I bought.
Old 12-06-2014, 04:09 PM
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Default Same problem

I have a 2010 F150 Platinum and am having the same problem. How do I fix the wiring?

Thank you
Old 12-07-2014, 07:11 AM
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Mine was in the door wiring harness, unplug the door harness at the b post connector, I pulled the sheathing back and for the wires chafed or broken just before the enter the plug. From there I cut out the broken wires and replaced an inch sections with new 18g wire. I soddered the connections and covered with heat shrinking tubing. Repair has lasted with no issues yet. It was a lot cheaper than a new harness.

Originally Posted by thammer0311
I have a 2010 F150 Platinum and am having the same problem. How do I fix the wiring?

Thank you
Old 12-07-2014, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by oxide80
Mine was in the door wiring harness, unplug the door harness at the b post connector, I pulled the sheathing back and for the wires chafed or broken just before the enter the plug. From there I cut out the broken wires and replaced an inch sections with new 18g wire. I soddered the connections and covered with heat shrinking tubing. Repair has lasted with no issues yet. It was a lot cheaper than a new harness.
Yup, or use some butt-type connectors, or for a little more money, some positap/posiconnect doodads
Old 12-22-2014, 08:48 PM
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Just wondering how you managed to pull back the black sheathing without ripping and tearing it? seems like its going to rip and advice is appreciated thanks

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