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Leveling Kit Install Help

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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 01:37 AM
  #1  
mingles's Avatar
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From: Frisco, TX
Default Leveling Kit Install Help

I tried to install a leveling kit today on my 2011 F150 but was not able to get the tie rod to let loose from the steering knuckle. I taped on it with a hammer but no luck. Also. do I need to remove the lower strut bolt or can I install without removing the strut completely? I was able to pull the strut out and install the leveling kit but was not able to put it back in due to the additional height would not clear.

Any help is appreciated.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 01:56 AM
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Ecoboost hank's Avatar
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Hey mingles I installed a.leveling kit last week on a 2011 f 150. pm me for my number and.i.can help you thur the install if you want
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:12 AM
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what level kit are u trying to install and what size?
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:49 AM
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Don't forget to disconnect the battery to kill power to the EPA.
Then beat on the knuckle with a BFH like you mean it and eventually the upper ball joint will seperate from the spindle.
Autospring recommends putting a bottle jack between the lower control arm and the upper strut tower to help get the strut w/spacer back in place.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 10:49 AM
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hallenfe
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i just gave the tie rod a good smack with a hammer and yes you will have to remove that 30mm bolt to pull out the strut assembly
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 01:26 PM
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Thanks everyone. I am going to rent an air impact wrench to get the lower struct bolt loose. Everything else is easy but that thing is a beast.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 09:50 AM
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We tried this install and couldn't get the strut back in with the spacer on.. We had the strut out completely.. had the upper arm off and had the tie rod off.. But we could not get the lower arm to move down far enough to get the spring/strut back in with the spacer on..
We did not try the bottle jack on the lower arm.. Really thought about trying to remove the lower ball joint too.. Just looking for the next step..
The instructions just said to loosen the bottom bolt, and pivot the strut out.. but the struct wasn't even close to coming out of the tower..
We even tried the spring compressor on the spring.. but couldn't get the strut to compress..
Any help??
Thanks,
Bryan
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 11:25 AM
  #8  
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I am not sure what your not undoing this is the steps I did and had no problems 2X2010 and 1 2011, remember first thing to do unhook battery. The video shows a kit number and part number and it says 2008 Ford... But it is all the same steps at least through 2011...
Whatch the video and if you have any questions ask me....
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 07:42 PM
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Thanks for the Video.. and that's about how we expected it to go together.. Ours was a 4 wheel drive, and the lower control are was different.. The lower arm was stamped steel and the mount for the strut was much taller.. with the arm as far down as we could get it the stock strut only clear the tower by 1/4 in.. with the top bolts in the tower we still lacked 3/4-1in to gettting the bottom strut in to the hole for the strut... We didn't try the bottle jack on the lower arm.. but did have a big pry bar on it.. it did move...
After hours on a 30 min job.. it is still stock...
Bryan
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 07:56 PM
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the aluminum lower control arm are on 04-08 nothing to do with 2wd, the 09-up have steel lower control arm

i install daystar 1" this week end and it was a pain to the strut back in...cant imagine how hard on 2.5" kit

the way i did it i completly remove the lower strut bolt and inserted the top of the strut into the bucket first and then pry the bottom back into place...for some reason driver side was more difficult then passenger..

Last edited by bigpotato555; Oct 25, 2011 at 07:59 PM.
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