Hello! I'm hoping some of you guys can help me out! I'm experienced working on cars but not super in depth knowledgeable about the specifics of the f150 6R80. So anyway, here is the situation....2009 F150 5.4liter 180k easy highway miles. Truck usually runs great, shifts fine, no issues. Then a couple days ago is was driving fine and I parked it for the night, the next morning when I was pulling out of the driveway it went into limp mode (wrench on the gauge cluster display) so I turned it around and parked it. The codes it through were P0741 for tcc and P0735 for incorrect 5th gear ratio. I've piled the pan and the fluid looks/smells great and virtually no signs of wear such as metal shavings.

The complete "mechatronics" unit is like $1200 and I literally just can not buy that so I really need to try to figure out what's specifically wrong and fix it. The valve body looks great, nice and clean, no shavings in it, the springs look good. I'm thinking/hoping it's a solenoid or the lead frame.

Can anyone tell me some specifics or have a diagram to share that shows what solenoids do what? Also what's the difference between the black and brown ones and the one that's different from all the others? Can I test them all by just hooking them to 12v and listen for a click? Is the tcc even part of the mechatronic unit?

Or does anyone have any other thoughts on a different direction I should be looking?

Thanks! Hope someone knows the tranny fairly intimately.
Stephen

 

Here is a link to a useful 6R80 manual. Hope it helps.

http://edidist-public.sharepoint.com...%20Rev%201.pdf

 

That's a HUGE help Deerhunter4, I appreciate it!

 

Does anyone know if the solenoids are 12v? Should I be able to apply 12v to all of them and hear them click? I just am a bit concerned it it's possible they are low voltage and I damage them.

 

For anyone else reading this down the road I'd like to update a few things....hooking the solenoids up to 12v power doesn't hurt them, however it won't tell you anything. Some click with power and some dont because they are variable and open more or less based on voltage, more like a door as opposed to the others that click because they are on/off. All you need to do is check continuity by reading the ohms. The odd one called SSE (shift solenoid E) should ohm 17.5-18.6 and all the others in the row have either black or very dark brown caps and they all ohm 4.8-5.6

With the mechatronic removed I tried to get continuity from the lead frame pins based on info from the manual in section 4 where it shows which pins work which solenoids. I couldn't get anything so I removed the lead frame and checked the solenoids individually and they all spec out good except one (one used during 5th gear was lower than I should be). I'm going to replace that solenoid and since I couldn't get continuity from the lead frame pins I'm going to replace it also (it's part number AL3Z-7G276B )

In the workshop manual it says the TCC staying stuck in the off position will trip limp mode. The shift solenoids don't trip limp mode. Since my tcc ohms correctly I'm certain that the lead frame is dead and not controlling the solenoids which is why my tcc is stuck in the off position causing limp mode. The lead frame was $140 at the dealer, unless you have the actual part number they won't try to sell it to you. If they pull it by your yr/my/model it says only the entire mechatronic is available for $1200 (which supposedly that was a good deal price he was giving me). If you give them the part number they can pull it up, it may show up for a different engine but it should work anyway, you just have to have it reprogrammed using a mechanic scan tool. I'm about 99% sure this is because it comes programmed for a different engine, which is why they can't pull it based on my f150 info. These always have to be reprogrammed anyway. There is a number either on your old lead frame or valve body that correspondes to the solenoid program you will need.

I'll report back later in the week after I pick up the parts, reprogram, and verify that it's back on the road and driving good. The solenoids are around $32 each and the lead frame $140. MUCH better than a complete $1200 mechatronic unit.

Hope it works out! Thanks!
Stephen

 

Good to hear. I've been fighting a rough 1-2 shift and have been wondering about troubleshooting the solenoids and lead frame. That's how I found that manual that I linked for you. Be sure to keep me posted. I'm going to have to do something because the 1-2 shift is getting really bad.

 

I would definatly check them. I think you'll be able to at least take a preliminary test without even opening it up. In section 4 of your manual there's a section that shows the pins, most diagrams are of the connector plug that's outside the trans, but there is one that's the face of the plug that's part of the lead frame. So you should be able to disconnect the connector at the tranny and use the manual to check pins on the tranny side.

Here is a link to a PDF of the same info but from a mustang source, but I compared and it's the same. This has just the few pages you need to look at the pin layout. http://juchems.com/ServiceManuals/viewfile447d.pdf

I would pay most attention to the SSA, SSB, SSC, SSD, SSE, AND TCC. They all should read between 4.8-5.6 except for SSE should be between 17.5-18.6

If one of them reads low I'd pull it apart and change that one solenoid. It'll take less than half a day and cost about $35 for a new solenoid. Its worth a test.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll read up and see what I can find out. Would be really nice to get the correct shifting restored as the rest of the truck is perfect.

 

Xposure did you get it fixed? There's a TSB for your issue



And same with you deer hunter

 

Thanks Spazmonkey05 since I have the mechatronic out already I will definatly check the fluid pump adapter seal for cracks! Thanks for that info! As a matter of fact, being a tsb even if the seal is good I'm going to change it anyway because it's obviously a common part to go bad.