No problem let me know if you find anything!

 

Hello,
Thanks for actually posting your diagnostic journey. It's hard to find for these things, most seem to just replace/have rebuilt.
I'm curious if you found a problem with the pump seal and how everything turned out?
Hopefully there was a bright side.

My wife's 07 Expedition with 160K just threw a P0731 and I'll be tearing into it this weekend. Was driving fine the day before, except for an acceleration miss.
I thought that 8 pack of coils on the workbench was going to be the extent of the Ford wrenching.

Thanks,
Casey

 

I replaced one or two solenoids that didn't spec and that pump seal, buttoned it up and it was good to go. If I remember correctly it cost about $150.

I had purchased a lead frame but it ended up that it was slightly different and wouldn't work. My understanding is they don't make my specific lead frame any longer, which may be different than yours because different vehicles and years of the 6R80 have different lead frames, some are sold by the dealer and some or not. Anyway, I just cleaned my old one up and stuck it back on and it was fine.

Everything looked great in my Trans and there was really no reason to spend thousands of dollars over a solenoid. I didn't even pull the trans, I just pulled the cover and removed the mechatronic unit.

If your not sure about the diagnostic part but your real handy, I'd just replace all the solenoids and pump seal. It'll cost like $300 or so.

hope that helps! I was glad I did it.

Stephen

 

As a followup for anyone else with this issue, there is hope.
I pulled the pan on our tranny and the fluid didn't look all that bad. There was a light film on everything and a bit of gunk on the magnet, but nothing chunky.
I pulled the "mechatronic assembly", and sure enough, the pump inlet gasket was cracked. I've never been so happy to see a broken part.
I disassembled the lead frame, and cleaned everything off with CRC electronics cleaner.
I didn't pull the valve body apart as suggested in the TSB, because it didn't look like there were any pieces of plastic missing from the cracked pump seal, and the main oil pressure regulator valve seemed to moving freely when pressed from the outside.
I did ohm check the solenoids, and although they didn't match the suggested values, all of the similar ones were the same value and the odd one was higher, as expected.
I cleaned up the pan and gasket, put in the new seal, and put everything back together. I did replace the connector as commonly recommended, but honestly I didn't see any issues with the original.
One note, Vaseline doesn't cut it to hold temperature sensitive flow valve in place when it's 95 degrees out. I ended up using a thick red grease.
The "get to temp and fill to the proper level" is a bit of a pain, I ended up putting in about 7 1/2 quarts of SP, if I recall correctly, until it overflowed. The truck was only lifted from the front, and not level.
Then I went driving around a while to warm things up. Finally, I parked over a culvert half in the street to get the truck level for the final check and fill so I didn't have to level-lift it.
It took about another quart. Those fill quantities are from memory, but I had about 3-1/2 quarts left from the case, so it adds up.
The next morning I swapped out all the coils with the $40 8 pack off Amazon and it drives like new.
Well, except for the damn phasor knock, but that can wait until it cools off.
Casey

 

did this fix your transmission?