I was just going to say that, the timing chain tensioners are mounted to the head
But yes, if parts are cheap good idea to replace arms & guides.
You will see the gaskets are destroyed on the plastic timing chain tensioners & if you re-use them, they will just blow oil past the seals......
& wipeout the cams.
Bbay steps at this point, lets see what the cylinder looks like.
Dont buy anything.
Im guessing its looks out of time to me though,

Also seen the guides break removing the bolts.

 

The crank keyway at 2:00 isnt right or ideal.
get the pickup ring off the front of the crank & lets see where the timing mark is on the crank gear.

I just spoke to one of my guys as he just timed one & he had his keyway at 12:00

But idealing you want to be 100% certain your on #1 compression stroke before teardown so you know the cam is in time.

If the cylinder is not damaged, you will need to remove & replace the cam....

 

I think ideally you want they keyway 10-11 o'clock, but again research....
Compression stroke is key since the other chain is still attached.

 

Got it.

going to mark the pass guides, slides and chain and hoping I can get um back to original.

looks like keyway at 1:45, and dimple at just past 9.

Pass side

Driver

looks like I'm in trouble.

 

you cant time the engine, from where the dot is....
Really need to grasp your head around proper way of doing it...
You can bend valves, have timing 180 degrees out, etc....

You obviously need to properly time it & the wedge method is out the mindow at this point since the chain & guides are coming off.


Its a f@cking long way back in thinking you have it timed right & you dont.
valve cover, timing cover, all have to come back off.

 

ok, research down the road. Least I don't have to worry about messing up the timing now. When I get back to the reinstall I'll brainiac on it like crazy.

my hips and hernia say I'm done for today.

Many, many thanks for the guidework 🫵

 

I get it....