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Engine Pinging

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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 01:01 AM
  #21  
Sweatmachine's Avatar
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I'd like to check mine. Does anyone have a link to the DIY guide mentioned earlier in this thread?
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 01:40 AM
  #22  
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Default Plug gap

Originally Posted by Rmiranda134
Who's guys update here. All my plugs but one were were at .060 and the one was.055. So I went to .045 and took her out for a 30 minute ride up hills down hills got on it lugged it and I couldn't get it to ping at all. Now with them being so far out could that also have a bad effect how the engine runs? I wonder if some mpgs will return.? I know it sounds weird but seemed like it had a little more pep back.
Originally Posted by jedeckert1984
That's good to hear man. This weekend I am going to check my plugs for gapping. It might be, it seems that the problems people have been experiencing haven't been catastrophic (thank god). They have just had the engine lug or ping at certain RPMs. Thanks for the heads up.
I am going to check mine this weekend for sure and will let you all know as I have had the same issue. .060 is way off, glad you checked. What type of gauge did you use? I have used all different brands of gas, so I believe there now is more to it like the plugs and also the past summer heat that now seems to be gone. My latest tune was revised to less aggressive and my noise is gone at the low rpms, but I am going to check the plugs anyway.
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 02:22 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Sweatmachine
I'd like to check mine. Does anyone have a link to the DIY guide mentioned earlier in this thread?
Here it is man. I'm going to add it to my op so if anyone is experiencing this they can check their plugs.

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/F...ide/index.html
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 09:28 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by sodacraft
P.s. Timing tensioner problems usually have more of s valve clatter type sound, not like detonation. Listen to YouTube videos...type in tensioner noise.
Mine is definitely not the timing tensioner as I did go to youtube and listen like you suggested, thanks.
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 10:51 PM
  #25  
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I used an old school gapper you put on your key chain. My friend saw it the other day and couldn't believe I still had one. I guess you can that .060 is way past the threshold and will call that a worn plug. I'm glad I checked it. The weather in the northeast in late September can still have a hot day. Even power braking it I couldn't get it to ping or sound like the motor was doing something weird. I'm glad I checked. Next thing. Some new plugs.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 12:24 AM
  #26  
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The DIY guide in the original post is very good and was very helpful in changing my sparkplugs. Although I would suggest not using dielectric grease as suggested as an option. I went from 18 city down to 15.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 09:37 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Ned Fletcher
The DIY guide in the original post is very good and was very helpful in changing my sparkplugs. Although I would suggest not using dielectric grease as suggested as an option. I went from 18 city down to 15.
What did you gap yours down to? So you are saying the recap cost you some mpgs or you think the grease was interfering, that shouldn't if it was dielectric?
I will take a look at if the original install has any grease, if not then will not either.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 09:39 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Rmiranda134
I used an old school gapper you put on your key chain. My friend saw it the other day and couldn't believe I still had one. I guess you can that .060 is way past the threshold and will call that a worn plug. I'm glad I checked it. The weather in the northeast in late September can still have a hot day. Even power braking it I couldn't get it to ping or sound like the motor was doing something weird. I'm glad I checked. Next thing. Some new plugs.
Are you suggesting to go ahead and install new OEM plugs, or yours looked pretty bad. my truck is at around 23k now?
Looks like there are some autolites Iridium Xp's carry a 7year warranty and the OE motor craft 2years, looks like the exact same plug, and then NGK Iridium IX 1 year which shows a heat range of 6. Autolite gap at .044, Motorcraft gap at .051, and NGK at .052 I will check my manual but I believe the gap is a little less, so the .045 might be the best medium.

Last edited by Koolponycar; Sep 27, 2014 at 10:13 AM.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 01:07 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Koolponycar
Are you suggesting to go ahead and install new OEM plugs, or yours looked pretty bad. my truck is at around 23k now?
Looks like there are some autolites Iridium Xp's carry a 7year warranty and the OE motor craft 2years, looks like the exact same plug, and then NGK Iridium IX 1 year which shows a heat range of 6. Autolite gap at .044, Motorcraft gap at .051, and NGK at .052 I will check my manual but I believe the gap is a little less, so the .045 might be the best medium.
Yeah I'm probably goin to replace with motorcraft plugs. I like to stick with whatever brand always goes with a particular vehicle. Ford= motor craft. Gm= delco I think it is.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 05:31 PM
  #30  
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For you guys that removed and checked yours, did you have to use any lubricating oil to break them loose? I am trying to remove the first one with a 3/8 ratchet and it is very very tight. I am afraid of breaking it off down in there. My ratchet is short so maybe a breaking bar just seems like it doesn't want to move.
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