blueovelboy

AKA add a band-aid and not fix it? if you have to go back then your not fixen anything your just pushing it off till latter!

i look at it like this why keep throwing band-aids on the symptoms fix the problem! ok and why would you fix your Owen truck if its a ford problem sounds a little strange. i would get to the dealer and have it logged in so to have records! i have a pile of service record so when i take legal action i have Prof for my fight.

Flabioso

My truck doesn't have a shudder or trans bump or down shift bump or needs a new driveshaft all mine needs is a little grease on the yoke, what the problem is for some reason the bone heads that design our trucks will not put a grease zerk on the yokes, I have never seen a yoke that didn't needed to be greased on a regular basis, it's a bad design that all the truck manufactures are doing now day's for some reason they think they can build a better mouse trap, that's y I did and in the future will do it myself for the simple reason I know it was done correct, and when my warranty is done I'm going to drill the yoke and install a grease zerk...

lotecredneck

Well, my old crappy Dodge that I keep at my cabin has well ove 100k miles on it and it has never needed greasing! It is tight and solid as far as the driveline is concerned. Everything else on the POS has broken, but the driveline is still tight.

Some of our trucks exhibit this problem and others don't. Why would that be if they needed routine greasing? There is a problem and they apparently don't know how to fix it.

We shall see.......

Tony

nh150owner

I have a 2011 eco 157inch and i have the shutter when i tow to not sure but heard something about the two piece drive shaft?

PWheels

I have an 09 FX4 four door short bed and I have had the vibration when accelerating and the bump when coming to a stop since day one. Up until a week ago (at 34,000 miles on the truck) they told me they did not have a fix for the problem. A week ago at the dealership they did some sort of reprogramming of the transmission and said the problem was gone and I have to say the shifts got smoother and the vibration has gotten less frequent and not as harsh but it still happens from time to time. And the bump when stopping is still there. They said for the next 1000 miles it will relearn the way I drive and get better over time. I went back two days ago because it was still happening and I brought the idea to them to grease the slip yoke. The guy told me that I have a one piece drive shaft (is that true?) and they could not grease it. He told me to go home and drive it for another 1000 miles and it should work out the kinks and that it will not hurt the truck but just be an annoyance. So I gave up and went home. But it is so annoying and I can't help but think that it is affecting something and will be a potential harm for the future down the road. I'm ticked off and want this problem fixed. Other than that I love the truck besides the squeaks and grinds I get when first starting up the truck and switching from park to drive but then that all goes away once I start driving. Is that just regular wear and tear? I only have 35,000 miles on it is that normal?

dootech

What?? Am I selling you a secret snake oil fix that I don't describe until you wire me money to my Nigerian bank account??
It's not a "band-aid". I will even extend this to anyone on here, come to my house and drink a beer (or pop) while I fix it for you free of charge. Seeing the s~~~ eatin grin on your face after you take it around the block and realize it was that easy is worth it for me.

Seriously, pm if interested (apple valley, mn)

Cheers

The shuddering thing is a separate issue, I can't help you guys there.

I used to wrench at a multi line motorcycle dealership so I know what goes at the service counter. The guy at the counter telling you your truck has a one piece driveshaft doesn't know what he's talking about. My advice is to ask if you can speak with a mechanic, but don't take up the guy's whole day.

blueovelboy

dude i have had this done three times at least and 300 to 500 miles its back! what do you do that ford don't? i am all for it, If its the last time it has to be regressed, but i don't think it will last. now i might be wrong and you just might have the secret to the life long fix but i am still a little skeptic

dootech

I don't know what they did to your truck, but like I said in my edited post, it helps to talk to the mechanic that did or is going to do the work. I always went the extra mile for the customer that wanted to talk to the person working on his baby (provided he wasn't a d!ck about it)

dootech

BS? like i said not snake oil voodoo worship.
i posted about this in another thread....

i had a 98 ranger that did the same thing my 09 f150 screw 157" did. it took a long time and many mechanics to figure out what it was on the ranger. the guy that figured it out was a coworker i worked with at a motorcycle dealership. this guy worked at a ford dealership for some years and learned the hard way by rebuilding rear ends only to find the clunk still there.... till he tried the driveshaft. he suggested i go over to the ford store and get their special ford blue grease (which is basically just a molybdenum grease i think) and try it on mine. i suffered the clunk for about 2 yrs and 30k miles so you can imagine how effin happy i was to have a smooth stopping/takeoff experience. it was like a whole new truck!

i did the lube at about 70k, sold it to my dad at 103k, then he sold it to a coworker of his. it has 125k on it now and the current owner reports smooth stops/takeoffs.

bought my f150 with 36k on it and noticed the clunk on the test drive, i greased the driveshaft shortly thereafter. currently has 42k and no clunk.

it works, you guys can take it or leave it.

any votes for a write-up

dootech

pics copied from a post by member darkmoone

start on a level surface. i would recommend engaging 4 wheel drive first (if equipped), put in park, apply emergency brake, and chock front and rear of rear wheels. maybe chock the front wheels too. better safe than sorry, and once you unbolt the rear u-joint you don't want the rear axle to move/rotate. the theory here is that the u-joints have to be aligned front and rear or an out of balance condition can occur, i'm not sure if i believe it but that's what i practice.

(picture of differential/u-joint/driveshaft)
mark the u-joint to diff. flange so its easy to put back together the way it was. GREEN LINE. use a sharpie or something like that. unbolt the 4 bolts holding the u-joint to the diff. flange. i can't remember what size it is but i can tell you it is metric and you have to use a 12 point socket. take the bolts out and let the driveshaft sit on the ground.

(pic of bellows circled)
cut the two one use clamps (it is possible to reuse these, i've done it before, but its a pain). pull the driveshaft rearward and it should separate, if not twist the bellows a little to get it loose or just slide it forward.

now you've got your driveshaft separated. clean the splined areas on both sides with a rag or some brake clean if you want, just make sure the brake clean dries/evaporates before you start greasing. on the female side make sure to get grease in every valley between the splines, i went about as deep as i could, probably the second knuckle of my middle finger. don't fill it to the bottom. just make sure you get some in every valley all the way around.
same for the male side, except that apply a liberal amount to the whole length.

it helps to have a wife/child/cousin/grandma (in-law? nah) to help hold the rear semi lined up while you line up the splines and slide it together, then verify the rear alignment. if your original marks are off, slide it out and rotate to the next spline in the right direction and check your marks. once you get it lined up right bolt the rear back together (i recommend red loctite and about 75ft/lbs). then wipe off excess grease, you can leave some excess, but just a little. put the bellows back in place and secure with zipties/thin band clamps or the correct one use clamps from the dealer. i've only used zipties, haven't had a problem.

summary: 4 bolts, 2 clamps, some grease and you're done, and a lot happier with your truck