Condition of Vehicle w/Rust Question
#1
Condition of Vehicle w/Rust Question
I'm considering purchasing 2010 with 70k. I took it for a ride and it was solid. Mileage for the year seems low too. However, it has the rocker panel rust issue, there is some rust on the bottom of the front door(s) and it has the leak in the back by the window. The leak, from what I've read is an easy fix, most likely the 3rd brake light and the dealer is telling me he will replace the rocker panels and take care of the door.
My question is, should I even consider the vehicle even though the rest of it is in good shape, it is still tight and has low miles? Or, should I consider one with no rust and 120K miles? Locally, they are both about the same price I'm also assuming I will have a timing chain replacement at 100k, is that correct? I might make another thread for that question. Thanks for the advice....
My question is, should I even consider the vehicle even though the rest of it is in good shape, it is still tight and has low miles? Or, should I consider one with no rust and 120K miles? Locally, they are both about the same price I'm also assuming I will have a timing chain replacement at 100k, is that correct? I might make another thread for that question. Thanks for the advice....
#2
Gold Member
I'm considering purchasing 2010 with 70k. I took it for a ride and it was solid. Mileage for the year seems low too. However, it has the rocker panel rust issue, there is some rust on the bottom of the front door(s) and it has the leak in the back by the window. The leak, from what I've read is an easy fix, most likely the 3rd brake light and the dealer is telling me he will replace the rocker panels and take care of the door.
My question is, should I even consider the vehicle even though the rest of it is in good shape, it is still tight and has low miles? Or, should I consider one with no rust and 120K miles? Locally, they are both about the same price I'm also assuming I will have a timing chain replacement at 100k, is that correct? I might make another thread for that question. Thanks for the advice....
My question is, should I even consider the vehicle even though the rest of it is in good shape, it is still tight and has low miles? Or, should I consider one with no rust and 120K miles? Locally, they are both about the same price I'm also assuming I will have a timing chain replacement at 100k, is that correct? I might make another thread for that question. Thanks for the advice....
Also, do you have the budget to step up from the 5.4L? Could also avoid the potential (not all trucks though) for timing issues.
These are just my opinions. The interwebs are overrun with random guys with opinions. Good luck with the purchase, keep us posted.
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[F2C]MaDMaXX (11-29-2020)
#4
Gold Member
Not if you buy vehicles that have spent their life in non-salt states. I will only by from places like southern Colorado, AZ, NM, South TX, etc. California, etc. I used to live in the East and can't believe what I used to put up with regarding rust. Fly and drive. Well worth the $200 air fare, plus make it an adventure to drive it back.
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[F2C]MaDMaXX (11-29-2020)
#5
Dielectrically 5w30
Yeah, if finances allow, i would step up to a 2011 or higher. But no rust is going to be better than rust that's fixed.
#6
Senior Member
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#7
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#8
Dielectrically 5w30
Sorry, they were unrelated sentences.
2011+ were the new engines, the old 5.4 is a comparative disaster of an engine in old age, especially when it's used/unknown history.
2015+ went aluminium, but they're very likely out of budget, i know they were for me. Still, no rust is still better than repaired rust.
2011+ were the new engines, the old 5.4 is a comparative disaster of an engine in old age, especially when it's used/unknown history.
2015+ went aluminium, but they're very likely out of budget, i know they were for me. Still, no rust is still better than repaired rust.