I am an ac tech and yeah that is definitely excessive. Looks like someone added more at some point in time. The problem with getting it out is you will not only need to flush the evap, cond, and all lines but remove the compressor and up end it and let it drain.

Once that's done then you can go back and add the appropriate amount of oil for each component. 2oz each for the cond and evap. And about 4oz directly into the compressor then install it and rotate the shaft 8-10 times before evacuating the system. Dye at this point can also be added. Then recharge. Too much oil which is what the dye blends with not the refrigerant can and will cause a lack of cooling.

 

Yep thats what i saw as well. There is no way there should be that much in the system. Im going to flush the evap and condenser, then c what happens. Looks like there are two coupling fittings that i can take loose and flush both coils. If i have to flush it 2 times it would be easier done than removing the compressor.

 

Do you have the flush and evacuation equipment on hand? If no then you're pissing into the wind halfassing it like that. Or perhaps you're unaware of the need for such equipment and chemicals designed for those purposes?

Need to know your skill level and equipment list.

P.S. You can't just flush the condenser, the receiver/drier is inside it, you have to remove it first then cap it back without and flush, then replace it with new as exposure to humidity will essentially destroy it.

 

Ok, i flushed evap and condenser, evap held some dye, the condener was FULL of dye. Id guess 2 to 6 oz. Im out of flush. Going to vacuum recharge and see what happens.

 

My 13 is supposed to cycle at 36-38 degrees at the evap. (Per fords repair manual). Mine, like others in this range, cycle at 44-48 degrees. This is viewable in the ford ids system. Mine clearly was.

It is my belief, in my model, ford is controlling this over ride cycle for better fuel economy.

Our systems, WILL freeze you out, if correctly charged and using the hack mentioned earlier. My 08 also only produced 40 out the vent, i was told by experts and folks here, that for that year and up, 40 was darn good!

my 13 has had 3 evaps now, the original was replaced because the cycling issue i mentioned earlier. The service manager stated there were bad probes fixed in these unit, the replacement would fix it, it did not. This further reinforced to me, the cycling was being controlled elsewhere for fuel economy.

 

I have the equipment and knowledge. Looks like the drier is just in front of compressor. I isolated evap and condenser and fushed with ac flush. I have since vacuumed to 30 mic and recharged. Now my windows are sweating . Must b on the rite track.so what is the hack to keep compressor from cycling. Since up until now my clutch has stayed engaged

 

So i get they are cycling the compressor when the temp gets low enuff. My point is until i flushed evap and condenser of all the excess dye. My compressor never cycled because the system could not wor k properly. It had more dye/oil so the expansion valve could not evap the refrigerent properly

 

What exactly are you calling the "Drier" ? It's inside the bottom of the condenser.

 

Im calling the drier the silver circular cylender just in front of compressor no way i c that a drier can be inside the condensor , also why and when did they get rid of the suction line accumulator.

 

The accumulator was a different older ac system and is replaced by the receiver/drier located in the bottom of the condenser and an expansion valve before the evap core.