Bilsteins Installed
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 504
Likes: 22
From: Lafayette, LA
Bilsteins Installed
Hi Everyone,
I just installed the Bilstein 5100's on the front. I did the rears about four months ago. So far, day after install, about 150 miles, I love this ride. I kept the stock ride height, but they are a hint stiffer than before.
As for the install, I did all the work on the rears myself (super duper easy) and the most of the work on the front (not so much).
I planned on doing a writeup with pictures, but this ended up more involved than I planned. Mostly you need wrenches & sockets in the 3/4" up 1 1/16th range. Need a couple small ones in the 1/4" to 3/8". It would also save you a lot of beating and banging to have some type of ball joint puller. Oh, and a short cheater bar because the same person who screwed on the oil filter at the factory must have put on the lower strut bolt. It was super tight.
On the driver side, after I got the strut assembly disconnected, I had serious problems getting it out. I disconnected the stabilizer bar from the control arm, loosened the upper ball joint from steering knuckle, and eventually, removing the two bolts off the lower control arm to drop it down. Then the strut came out.
On the passenger side, I disconnected the upper ball joint, stablizer bar, and one side of the lower control arm and it came right out.
Talking with dealership, all they do is disconnect stabilizer, remove steering ball joint, loosen upper ball joint, then it's supposed to slide out. After this experience, I don't believe them.
I have replaced the struts on my previous car, an Oldsmobile Alero, and my wifes previous car, a Subaru Forester. I've always used the rented tool from Auto Zone or Advanced safely with never one problem. However, this tool did not work on my truck springs. I tightened as far as they could go and that's when I noticed the screw was bowing out. Figured it was time to quit while I had all ten fingers and two eyeballs.
I called several places to try to find someone who would do the spring service. Meineke acted like I wanted it done for free, another shop wanted $90 an hour, 2 hour minimum. And many others wouldnt touch.
Enter Hub City Ford in Lafayette again. Awesome service. The technician swapped out both struts within 20 minutes. I had my truck reassembled within two hours after that and an alignment. And the price I paid was very agreeable.
I would say removing the strut assembly is within reach of most shade tree mechanics, but swapping out the struts require some serious hardware to compress the springs.
Hope this saves someone else the hassle.
Tim
I just installed the Bilstein 5100's on the front. I did the rears about four months ago. So far, day after install, about 150 miles, I love this ride. I kept the stock ride height, but they are a hint stiffer than before.
As for the install, I did all the work on the rears myself (super duper easy) and the most of the work on the front (not so much).
I planned on doing a writeup with pictures, but this ended up more involved than I planned. Mostly you need wrenches & sockets in the 3/4" up 1 1/16th range. Need a couple small ones in the 1/4" to 3/8". It would also save you a lot of beating and banging to have some type of ball joint puller. Oh, and a short cheater bar because the same person who screwed on the oil filter at the factory must have put on the lower strut bolt. It was super tight.
On the driver side, after I got the strut assembly disconnected, I had serious problems getting it out. I disconnected the stabilizer bar from the control arm, loosened the upper ball joint from steering knuckle, and eventually, removing the two bolts off the lower control arm to drop it down. Then the strut came out.
On the passenger side, I disconnected the upper ball joint, stablizer bar, and one side of the lower control arm and it came right out.
Talking with dealership, all they do is disconnect stabilizer, remove steering ball joint, loosen upper ball joint, then it's supposed to slide out. After this experience, I don't believe them.
I have replaced the struts on my previous car, an Oldsmobile Alero, and my wifes previous car, a Subaru Forester. I've always used the rented tool from Auto Zone or Advanced safely with never one problem. However, this tool did not work on my truck springs. I tightened as far as they could go and that's when I noticed the screw was bowing out. Figured it was time to quit while I had all ten fingers and two eyeballs.
I called several places to try to find someone who would do the spring service. Meineke acted like I wanted it done for free, another shop wanted $90 an hour, 2 hour minimum. And many others wouldnt touch.
Enter Hub City Ford in Lafayette again. Awesome service. The technician swapped out both struts within 20 minutes. I had my truck reassembled within two hours after that and an alignment. And the price I paid was very agreeable.
I would say removing the strut assembly is within reach of most shade tree mechanics, but swapping out the struts require some serious hardware to compress the springs.
Hope this saves someone else the hassle.
Tim
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 132
Likes: 7
Originally Posted by myowneq
Hi Everyone,
I just installed the Bilstein 5100's on the front. I did the rears about four months ago. So far, day after install, about 150 miles, I love this ride. I kept the stock ride height, but they are a hint stiffer than before.
As for the install, I did all the work on the rears myself (super duper easy) and the most of the work on the front (not so much).
I planned on doing a writeup with pictures, but this ended up more involved than I planned. Mostly you need wrenches & sockets in the 3/4" up 1 1/16th range. Need a couple small ones in the 1/4" to 3/8". It would also save you a lot of beating and banging to have some type of ball joint puller. Oh, and a short cheater bar because the same person who screwed on the oil filter at the factory must have put on the lower strut bolt. It was super tight.
On the driver side, after I got the strut assembly disconnected, I had serious problems getting it out. I disconnected the stabilizer bar from the control arm, loosened the upper ball joint from steering knuckle, and eventually, removing the two bolts off the lower control arm to drop it down. Then the strut came out.
On the passenger side, I disconnected the upper ball joint, stablizer bar, and one side of the lower control arm and it came right out.
Talking with dealership, all they do is disconnect stabilizer, remove steering ball joint, loosen upper ball joint, then it's supposed to slide out. After this experience, I don't believe them.
I have replaced the struts on my previous car, an Oldsmobile Alero, and my wifes previous car, a Subaru Forester. I've always used the rented tool from Auto Zone or Advanced safely with never one problem. However, this tool did not work on my truck springs. I tightened as far as they could go and that's when I noticed the screw was bowing out. Figured it was time to quit while I had all ten fingers and two eyeballs.
I called several places to try to find someone who would do the spring service. Meineke acted like I wanted it done for free, another shop wanted $90 an hour, 2 hour minimum. And many others wouldnt touch.
Enter Hub City Ford in Lafayette again. Awesome service. The technician swapped out both struts within 20 minutes. I had my truck reassembled within two hours after that and an alignment. And the price I paid was very agreeable.
I would say removing the strut assembly is within reach of most shade tree mechanics, but swapping out the struts require some serious hardware to compress the springs.
Hope this saves someone else the hassle.
Tim
I just installed the Bilstein 5100's on the front. I did the rears about four months ago. So far, day after install, about 150 miles, I love this ride. I kept the stock ride height, but they are a hint stiffer than before.
As for the install, I did all the work on the rears myself (super duper easy) and the most of the work on the front (not so much).
I planned on doing a writeup with pictures, but this ended up more involved than I planned. Mostly you need wrenches & sockets in the 3/4" up 1 1/16th range. Need a couple small ones in the 1/4" to 3/8". It would also save you a lot of beating and banging to have some type of ball joint puller. Oh, and a short cheater bar because the same person who screwed on the oil filter at the factory must have put on the lower strut bolt. It was super tight.
On the driver side, after I got the strut assembly disconnected, I had serious problems getting it out. I disconnected the stabilizer bar from the control arm, loosened the upper ball joint from steering knuckle, and eventually, removing the two bolts off the lower control arm to drop it down. Then the strut came out.
On the passenger side, I disconnected the upper ball joint, stablizer bar, and one side of the lower control arm and it came right out.
Talking with dealership, all they do is disconnect stabilizer, remove steering ball joint, loosen upper ball joint, then it's supposed to slide out. After this experience, I don't believe them.
I have replaced the struts on my previous car, an Oldsmobile Alero, and my wifes previous car, a Subaru Forester. I've always used the rented tool from Auto Zone or Advanced safely with never one problem. However, this tool did not work on my truck springs. I tightened as far as they could go and that's when I noticed the screw was bowing out. Figured it was time to quit while I had all ten fingers and two eyeballs.
I called several places to try to find someone who would do the spring service. Meineke acted like I wanted it done for free, another shop wanted $90 an hour, 2 hour minimum. And many others wouldnt touch.
Enter Hub City Ford in Lafayette again. Awesome service. The technician swapped out both struts within 20 minutes. I had my truck reassembled within two hours after that and an alignment. And the price I paid was very agreeable.
I would say removing the strut assembly is within reach of most shade tree mechanics, but swapping out the struts require some serious hardware to compress the springs.
Hope this saves someone else the hassle.
Tim
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 504
Likes: 22
From: Lafayette, LA
Hey Jacob,
I love the ride. My truck feels "tall" again. I haven't towed the camper or hauled anything heavy yet. That'll be in two weeks.
I was able to get everything back together again. Took it in for alignment, and most of the numbers were off the charts.
Thanks for the good job.
Tim
I love the ride. My truck feels "tall" again. I haven't towed the camper or hauled anything heavy yet. That'll be in two weeks.
I was able to get everything back together again. Took it in for alignment, and most of the numbers were off the charts.
Thanks for the good job.
Tim
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 504
Likes: 22
From: Lafayette, LA
One of the first things I did was go buy a lifetime alignment from Firestone. This was my 2nd. After the third, it's all free and I have no plans on getting rid of this truck.
Originally Posted by myowneq
One of the first things I did was go buy a lifetime alignment from Firestone. This was my 2nd. After the third, it's all free and I have no plans on getting rid of this truck.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 504
Likes: 22
From: Lafayette, LA
I paid almost $200 for my lifetime alignment. As for a pic, sorry, but I'm back offshore. It really doesn't look any different than it did when new. I feel a difference more than see.