Just ordered at set of the rectangle floods. Can't wait.

Might mount mine under the spring shackle though so they are hidden. Not sure if it will cut the light output to much though.

How are you guys wiring these in? Power from the reverse light at the taillight or the trailer harness? And are grounding right to the frame?

 

The OP does go over wiring but, like others, I am curious if you can just pull power from the trailer harness and call it good.

 

I tapped in at the tail light. I didn't want to open up the trailer harness and have to worry about resealing it.

 

Did you use taps or cut and solder?
1wire to each taillight or 1 down and 1 across the lights?

I will likely cut and solder and then heat shrink we get too much salt for using taps on exterior wiring.

 

I'm liking the concept of these LED light bars, although think they should be on a switch and bypassed for normal nighttime backing around other drivers. Some of those posts showing utility on large properties backing towards a garage (or similar) but also worthwhile when out in the boonies at night. For that, the flood style is most appealing to me. Some have posted budget-friendly LED options which are worth considering. I'm not inclined to cut my truck's ptm bumper, so mounting lights inside and above bottom edge of the bumper pointed downward at an angle seems should provide sufficient lighting as a work area. Edited to show unused holes on receiver hitch mount (max tow version) which seem are in ideal location. Is this where some of you mounted yours?

I've dealt with the LED lighting supplier linked below (no affiliation) to establish group buys for LED lamps for RVs wherein incandescent bulbs are replaced with LED of same BA15 base style. LEDs draw roughly 1/10 current of incandescent which is a "boon" for boondock camping when power is coming from the house battery vs on-board genny. Some interesting products are listed (including switches/wiring) that might work for my intended application. Check it out...

http://www.ledtrailerlights.com/

 

I scraped off the coating then wrapped new wire around and soldered. Then sealed with liquid taped and then electrical tape. Road salt and water was why I didn't want to open the trailer harness.

 

Perfect. Thanks.

 

I did the same thing. Everyone was saying to tap into the trailer harness, but that seemed like more work. Was easier just to ground to one of the bumper bolts, and then run power to the tails. I t-tapped though.

 

Price on those sold as a pair for prox $20 shipped is great but they seem like a knockoff clone of Lifetime LED Lights P/N LLL-18-1400 at MSRP $75/each! Googling shows that P/N advertised w/o discount (other than supplier link I posted earlier w/ 10% off promo code). I'm not anxious to spend that much if the cheaper version is built to last as seems are LLL products.
https://www.lifetimeledlights.com/le..._inch_18w_cree

 

An "aha" moment...

Worrying about legality of using subject auxiliary lights prompted me to do some online searching of laws. As I figured, not legal here in AZ for; "Not more than two backup lamps either separately or in combination with other lamps, but a backup lamp shall not be lighted when the motor vehicle is in forward motion". Other state laws are likely similar.
http://www.azleg.gov/FormatDocument....28&DocType=ARS

With that known, I'll mount a single low profile LED lamp with flood-style beam and provide switched power from inside the bed box. I have a Leer 100XL topper cap which I had built with optional 3-gang weatherproof receptacle mounted on rear driver side (above UnderCover SwingCase). Since my objective for additional rear lighting is for utility, this approach should keep me legal since it isn't switchable from inside the cab.