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Worrying about legality of using subject auxiliary lights prompted me to do some online searching of laws. As I figured, not legal here in AZ for; "Not more than two backup lamps either separately or in combination with other lamps, but a backup lamp shall not be lighted when the motor vehicle is in forward motion". Other state laws are likely similar.
I ordered an LED conversion kit for interior/exterior lights, includes backup lights
I figured I might as well order the extra back lights to go under the bumper -like Apeman/MikeFX4 bought
Funny I thought the cargo light might come on when you back up...but its tied to interior lights
Years ago I had a pair of flood lights on an angle iron that went across the back of my car under the bumper
Specifically so that I could turn them on when connecting/disconnecting a trailer
I was stopped once by an officer for my tail lights out (tool box cut my wires).
He did ask about the backup floods, was satisfied about my answer about the trailer
I don't know about anybody alse but I don't like leaving my truck in reverse while hooking up my trailer just to have light
So I'm debating on having these on a separate switch
Also trying to decide if I want to run a new fuse block direct from the battery for accessories:
These LED Flood lights
Front seat heaters 27w each pad
....I'm "assuming" that means 54w for each seat as there are 2 pads per seat
Under dash/back seat additional LED pod lights:
I'm planning on getting the 18watt lites(2) for a total of 36 watts for backup lites. I am gonna tie them together and buy a 7 point male plug and tie the lites into it and plug it in. If this plug is normally used for trailer backup lites, I am sure this circuit can handle this load. I have found nothing to say that it won't. I don't want to overload the backup switch. My trailer uses the 4 pin flat plugin with no backup lites.
Anybody see any pitfalls to doing it this way? Thanks, Pete
I'm planning on getting the 18watt lites(2) for a total of 36 watts for backup lites. I am gonna tie them together and buy a 7 point male plug and tie the lites into it and plug it in. If this plug is normally used for trailer backup lites, I am sure this circuit can handle this load. I have found nothing to say that it won't. I don't want to overload the backup switch. My trailer uses the 4 pin flat plugin with no backup lites.
Anybody see any pitfalls to doing it this way? Thanks, Pete
So got them installed. Drilled a 5/16 hole in the side of spring shackle mount and angled them slightly to shine out under the bumper. Will get pics of light output when it gets dark.
Tied into tail light wiring on each side. However my aftermarket camera is tied into the drivers side reverse light and now the screen goes blue and doesn't get power after that. Not sure if the lights are drawing too much. Still have the stock 921 halogens as my led replacements won't be here for another week or two.
From the drivers mirror looking back.
From the box looking back.
Think I might have to re locate the camera power and ground to the trailer harness above the spare. Will try smaller led bulbs 194 in the 922 sockets to see if it makes a difference.
Last edited by winchested; Dec 22, 2014 at 07:01 PM.
I would imagine that the current draw is similar to the ones I installed. At about 2.0 Amps, that is not what I would consider negligible. If it was .2 Amp, then ok that is minimal. So the issue with your camera could be attributed to it.
As a follow up to my installation. I really didn't pay much attention to how I oriented the Relay when I zip-tied it up. It was way up under the bed above the spare tire. Well, I can tell you that if you install it upside down, and then get aggressive with the garden hose during your truck washing activities, you can short out the relay when it fills with water . DOH ! It was easy enough to fix with an air hose to blow the water out, but lesson learned. Definitely make sure you orient the relay with the connector pointed down. I know, installation 101. I knew better, but just didn't give it any thought. It's working fine now. I thought about not mentioning this little faux pas, but figured someone might just learn something from it. I mean, that's why we post things here right, to share and learn? I'll put this in my original message so users don't have to get all the way down to this post to find out.
When it comes to flush mounting a light, you have to ask yourself
"what do I put in the ugly hole in the bumper down the road if this light fails on me and that same light is unavailable? Like wise, what if I want to remove them, or they are stolen?"
I currently have a box of SRM Rigids I want to install in the spring when I got more time, I did not buy flush mount for the reasons of future replacement and/or removal, which are possibilities.
I too wanted a flush mount at first, but was talked out of it by friends.
To each their own though.
This is my plan with my SRM's
The bumper caps are found <$80 on eBay, it's not really a big deal.
Must suck to have your friends make your decisions for you.
Flush mount Rigids are one of my favorite and most useful mods!
I did a small upgrade to my backup lights, I had Rigid D2's, I went from them to Baja Design Squadron XL's. A few pics.......
The old compared to the new.....
Mandatory night time shots.....
Overkill, absolutely....anything worth doing, is worth over doing. I have a pair of flush mount BD's for the rear bumper too, probably install those later this week for giggles.....