tmajor

So, to date, some of my "as built" data information on the Ford corporate site HAS been changed, but not all, which I felt was required to make Auto lamps work.
I had previously, made an appointment with a new dealership, as I knew the 1st dealership was getting sick of seeing me, just to test my theories, which didn't have positive results.

Remember, back a month ago, nobody had a clue! Could it be made to work? Are other modules required? Are the wires all there, etc.?

Today, I am pleased to announce, that for the second time, F150 Forum.com members, have been able to get their '12 and '13 STX Auto Lamps working at 100%! Hal was the 1st with his 2013 STX 4X2 Scab and now my 2012 STX 4X4 RCSB.

.... Got to the new dealership, who has customers, who are friends of mine. While they were totally in the dark, as to what to do, they gave me a young 21 year old. I explained, what I wanted to accomplish, what I had and what he needed. He put it in the shop, got his IDS and asked me what he needed to do. I explained, that he had to get somewhere to manually enter data, which he found. He said, he never had to enter data manually before. We stepped right through the process, until line 27, which was apparently cut off by the printer. Fortunately, I had my “work copy”. When done, he allowed it to configure.
He turned A/L on, and they were “just like old times ... on!”. He got his flashlight and shined it on the photocell .... after a bit, they turned off!!! On the way home, there was a slight mist, so turned the wipers on ... in a bit the lights came on!!!

One of the other positive aspects of the visit .. NO Charge!!! ... and they were friendly!!! The young tech was pretty impressed ... he said, nobody had ever brought their own code in. LOL

The “as built” code, for a 2012 STX 3.7L, 4X4, regular cab, short bed, was manually changed to :

Auto Lamps
ICM 720-01-01 FF9E 3034 82AC

BCM 726-03-01 0201 0000 34
BCM 726-09-01 0100 38
BCM 726-11-01 0001 0000 40
BCM 726-12-01 0001 000C 4D

BCM 726-15-01 0001 0101 46 (Keypad Entry) (this change is only needed, if you intend to add the keypad entry)

Keep in mind, every F-150 and it's equipment is different. If you don't require the cluster to have the "delay" programing, forget changing the ICM code ... you'll be able to change the delay manually, without risk of error with other information on the cluster.

The 03-01 line varies from year to year and wheel base ... "34" is for 2012 4X4, 126" wheel base. Lines 09-01 and 11-01 are consistent. 12-01 might have differences.

Anything, which you do, is at your own risk! However, the system won't let you add code, which is totally off the wall and it can always be restored to factory "as built".

You'll need to take a list of your "as built" module codes and the changes needed with you, for the dealer tech, to work from. Make sure, they all printed (my printer cut off one line, but I had my "work copy" with me, which "saved the day")!.

I'm still pursuing the chance, of getting the changes put into the Ford Corporate data base, which will streamline the whole issue and be less volatile.

Have a good one!

Note: If you've had other functions enabled, such as remote start, DRL, etc. they will be erased and need to be re-activated, after making the manual changes.

tmajor

One other note:
2013 F-150s are easy to find and compare .. they are available "New"!

2011's are fairly easy to find .. they've been traded and are available used.

2012's can't be found as easily and 2012 RCSB's are nearly non existent!

You need comparable VINs to come up with the matching codes. eBay is a good source. Some dealers do, and some don't, publish the VINs.

What you'll be looking for are XLTs. If the A/L haven't been activated, due no A/L switch or whatever, lines 09-01 and 11-01 will appear to be correct, but further scrutiny, will reveal a difference.

hal caison

Yes, the tech who works with the IDS would normally know how to change the hex address for each module block. The information is entered manually changing the hex address as you go down through the module blocks. The info will have to be saved after all hex addresses have been re-entered. That means 3 lines of coding for the ICM and 47 lines of coding for the BCM. Many Ford techs same reluctant or simply are lazy and do not want to do it. You may have to find a dealership that is willing to work with you.

tmajor

I would be remiss to not give Hal due credit for assisting me with his knowledge and research. It was a joint effort "for the cause". Also, akhenaten was willing to assist, but we were pretty well along, at that point.

An after thought: All former US Military ... is that just a coincidence?

RES4CUE

It does sound like a government job, all this work just to avoid turning the **** manually!

Congrats fellas!

tmajor

Nah ... If it had been government, I'd of been using your money, the research would have taken 8 years and then, the project would have been scrapped! At which point, I would have all A/L switches, declared illegal and ordered them to be removed, at your expense.

tmajor

SoK66

Bravo!

Sweatmachine

Nice work. So what would the total cost be to do this?

tmajor

Without my fee, ... $50 - $100 for parts or whatever, you can find used and whatever you'd have to pay for programming ... $0 - $100.

My switch was $10 on eBay, $25 for sensor (new) and final programming $0. Research .. priceless!

Contact Jose at Lightning Parts (used) in Houston to see, if he can help you out.
lightningparts@yahoo.com