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I have no intentions whatsoever of leaving them locked for normal driving, but at least "bypassing" the normal is possible
A mechanical LSD does it all automatically. Repurposing an E-Locker is a neat idea but after you do all of the planning and some math, a simple diff change might seem more practical. And 3.73 is a ways off from 3.31. Have you considered your highway driving?
A mechanical LSD does it all automatically. Repurposing an E-Locker is a neat idea but after you do all of the planning and some math, a simple diff change might seem more practical. And 3.73 is a ways off from 3.31. Have you considered your highway driving?
I have had 2, '12 model, 2wd, w/ the e-locker. one has 3.31 gears, the other had 3.73's. mileage was actually better on the highway than my current, 3.31 truck. big difference in the "butt dyno" as well.
some are wondering about voltage. if i get a chance, I'll unplug mine and hook it to a voltmeter and see what happens. i do wish it was just a simple on/off switch, i don't like it turning off before i tell it to. i would not go with a momentary switch.
dont forget your speedometer/odometer will be off. either get a programmer, use forscan, or see if your dealer will reflash to recognize the gear change.
I have had 2, '12 model, 2wd, w/ the e-locker. one has 3.31 gears, the other had 3.73's. mileage was actually better on the highway than my current, 3.31 truck. big difference in the "butt dyno" as well.
some are wondering about voltage. if i get a chance, I'll unplug mine and hook it to a voltmeter and see what happens. i do wish it was just a simple on/off switch, i don't like it turning off before i tell it to. i would not go with a momentary switch.
dont forget your speedometer/odometer will be off. either get a programmer, use forscan, or see if your dealer will reflash to recognize the gear change.
Thanks. I did finally manage to find the part number for the 2WD switch for the dash, so I'm probably going to go that route now vs the momentary. I'm 90% sure I don't have any existing wiring, so I'm going to have to do that regardless. So, if you find out that voltage & amps, that would be great.
And yeah, I know I'll need to get it reprogrammed...
Update -- I did get the factory switch for a 2WD. And since I do NOT have the wiring already behind the dash and to the differential, I did manage to order the pigtails/connectors for both the switch and the differential. However, I did notice this peculiarity with the switch... It is an 8-pin switch, but only 3 pins are present which is no big deal. One is more than likely a dash light connection. The oddity is that there is continuity across the other two pins when the switch is OFF; when the switch is ON, there isn't any continuity across any of the three pins.
First, with the two-pin plug on the differential, it doesn't matter which is positive and which is negative. The solenoid/electromagnet is powered either way.
Second, regarding the stock 2WD switch, as guessed in the previous post, one of the three pins is for the dash lights (12v+). That means one of the other pins has to be a ground to get the dash light to work. Also with the other two pins, the switch is "closed" when the switch is in the OFF position, and "open" in the ON position, creating a negative/ground closed circuit.
So finally, my end wiring diagram is looking like this one--a negative switched relay to supply 12V power to the rear end. I've adopted the train-of-thought that the "ON" & "OFF" mean on-road and off-road, so that the switch is in the correct position while driving.
I’m undergoing the same swap with my rig, we might be able to help each other out. I’ve already completed the swap and put about 1500 miles on the new diff and mechanically, so far so good, but I haven’t done a single thing on the wiring end. Where did you source the 2 pin Molex connector that attaches to the locker on the diff?
First, with the two-pin plug on the differential, it doesn't matter which is positive and which is negative. The solenoid/electromagnet is powered either way.
Second, regarding the stock 2WD switch, as guessed in the previous post, one of the three pins is for the dash lights (12v+). That means one of the other pins has to be a ground to get the dash light to work. Also with the other two pins, the switch is "closed" when the switch is in the OFF position, and "open" in the ON position, creating a negative/ground closed circuit.
So finally, my end wiring diagram is looking like this one--a negative switched relay to supply 12V power to the rear end. I've adopted the train-of-thought that the "ON" & "OFF" mean on-road and off-road, so that the switch is in the correct position while driving.
So your switch operates backwards from what it's supposed to? Does your switch have an indicator light for the locker, and does it come on when the switch is in the "OFF" or "ON" position?
I'm thinking you could probably use a NC relay to correct the switch, but not sure if the side effects would be worth it... (below is me thinking "out loud", not necessarily trying to explain the circuit to you)
If I'm reading correctly, then right now when your switch is in the ON position, the switch is open and no power is going to the relay, locker is unlocked. In the OFF position, switch is closed, sending power to the relay and locking the locker. With the truck off, no power is going to the relay, locker stays unlocked. In the event of a switch failure, broken wire, bad connection, etc on the control side, the locker will be unlocked and you won't be able to lock it.
If you use a NC relay, then with the switch in the OFF position, the switch we be closed, which will open the relay and unlock the rear. Switch in the ON position opens the circuit, cutting the power to the relay, which will close it and lock the rear. With the truck off, the switch will still be completing the ground side of the circuit, so if the + side of the relay is on constant (not ignition switched) power, the circuit will be completed, the relay energized (open) and the locker unlocked. So you would have a slight constant electrical draw, unless you put both of the + sides of the relay on switched power. Also, an issue with the control side (switch failure, bad connection, etc) that opens the circuit will lock the rear and won't be able to unlock it unless you can energize the relay (or maybe just remove it?).
I’m undergoing the same swap with my rig, we might be able to help each other out. I’ve already completed the swap and put about 1500 miles on the new diff and mechanically, so far so good, but I haven’t done a single thing on the wiring end. Where did you source the 2 pin Molex connector that attaches to the locker on the diff?
I managed to find a 50-page online catalog of probably every connector Ford/Motorcraft uses, and both connectors were available at RockAuto. The Motorcraft part number for the 2-pin pigtail connector at the differential is WPT984. The pigtail connector for the stock switch is Motorcraft WPT995.
Don't be surprised by the description of the 2-pin--it is used in a variety of locations on the vehicle, including the differential. Matter of fact, the Motorcraft catalog lists it used in 32 different locations.
So your switch operates backwards from what it's supposed to? Does your switch have an indicator light for the locker, and does it come on when the switch is in the "OFF" or "ON" position?
I'm thinking you could probably use a NC relay to correct the switch, but not sure if the side effects would be worth it... (below is me thinking "out loud", not necessarily trying to explain the circuit to you)
If I'm reading correctly, then right now when your switch is in the ON position, the switch is open and no power is going to the relay, locker is unlocked. In the OFF position, switch is closed, sending power to the relay and locking the locker. With the truck off, no power is going to the relay, locker stays unlocked. In the event of a switch failure, broken wire, bad connection, etc on the control side, the locker will be unlocked and you won't be able to lock it.
If you use a NC relay, then with the switch in the OFF position, the switch we be closed, which will open the relay and unlock the rear. Switch in the ON position opens the circuit, cutting the power to the relay, which will close it and lock the rear. With the truck off, the switch will still be completing the ground side of the circuit, so if the + side of the relay is on constant (not ignition switched) power, the circuit will be completed, the relay energized (open) and the locker unlocked. So you would have a slight constant electrical draw, unless you put both of the + sides of the relay on switched power. Also, an issue with the control side (switch failure, bad connection, etc) that opens the circuit will lock the rear and won't be able to unlock it unless you can energize the relay (or maybe just remove it?).
I think I got what your saying... By using a 5-pin relay versus a 4-pin, my switch would function as it should. I could also run a 12v "accessory" wire to terminal 86; and a 12v 25 amp power to terminal 30. When the ignition is off, there shouldn't be any current draw.
10-09-2018, 12:25 PM
