2017 XLT

Background:
I recently Installed an aftermarket 10" Pioneer TS-A2500LS4 Shallow Sub in my truck with a Pioneer GM-D8701 Amp by tapping into the factory sub Preouts, as well as the Remote turn on in the rear drivers side pillar and turning it on with forscan. I am currently using a Y splitter off of the single RCA output that I wired into the factory sub output, as I noticed the sub is a lot louder when utilizing an RCA into both inputs. Everything works and sounds good, BUT my issue is when the truck powers on ( i.e. unlocking the truck) the sub pops, then while starting it, it also will pop again and If i am using the splitter the sub goes into protect mode (without the splitter it still pops but does not go into protect mode) until I unplug the RCA's for ~15 seconds and it resets and plug them back in its fine until I shut the truck off then the whole thing starts over again. My amp did come with a remote bass **** with the ethernet style plug and I have tired with it plugged in as well as unplugged with no change in symptoms.

My Question:

Has anyone else had any turn on pop issues going the FORscan route and IF so how were they addressed? I have been looking around on a lot of other threads on here as well as audio dedicated forums and so far am thinking I need a turn on delay to fix the issue, but I haven’t heard of any others having this turn on pop issue when installing an aftermarket sub using the FORscan method. I think I might be able to get away with using a " " which says it has a turn on delay of 1 Second, but am not sure if that will be a long enough delay? Another possible route I was considering was using a different Remote turn on, I have read of others using fuse #23 with an add a circuit and not talking about having any popping issues.

If anyone else has installed an aftermarket sub/amp using the FORscan method and has any advice it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Remove the remote turn on and all rca's. Jump the power to the remote turn on lead on the amp. Does it pop now? If so something is wrong with the amp. If it doesn't your amp may be turning on too early with that turn on and you will need to use a fuse 23 in the passenger footwell. You can test this by just running a temp wire through the truck and not actually hiding it. If it fixes your problem, then run the wire properly.

 

Thanks for advice, I will try this out tomorrow and report back with Findings. I bought everything brand new so I am hoping it is not a defective amp.

 

You need to add some type of Line Output Converter to the signal before the amplifier as your Pioneer amplifier does not accept factory speaker level inputs. The way you have it wired now, the factory subwoofer wire out of the factory amplifier is grounded to the chassis of the amplifier which is grounded to the chassis of the truck. Purchase a Kicker KisLOC2, then wire that before the amplifier and use the remote turn-on that it creates as it's a DC Offset turn-on, then your issues are resolved.

 

I would try fuse 23 first before buying anything extra.

 

If you are using the C pillar sub plug, there were issues with it causing pops because of the way the radio turned on. However, it should only be the 2015-2016 models because they did a software update to the ACM for the 2017s that was supposed to fix the issue. Maybe you have an early 2017 with the older software? The TR-4 should work if you go with that route or you can use fuse 23. I use the TR-4 and have no issues. It also provides a higher amp output if you want to add more amps later.

 

A $2 relay is good for remote with independent power. The $17 TR-4 is way over priced for a relay in my opinion.

 

A micro2 add-a-fuse is about $8, plus 12 feet of wire and the $17 isn't that bad. It also triggers down to 0.8v so it works well pumping the 6v that the sub plug provides for a turn on to 12v in a really small package compared to a Bosch relay

 

A relay is $2. That's all that you would need. No tap a fuse or extra long wire.

 

Don’t Bosch relays require 8-9 volts for their pull in voltage to trigger? The turn on at the sub plug is only 6v. So you would need to run from fuse 23 or use a low volt trigger Ike the TR-4.