Sub Pop When Starting
F150 Jr Vendor
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 3,173
Likes: 1,430
There are "triggers" all over the vehicle.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 17
Likes: 12
From: San Diego, CA
Back when I was using my 2018's hidden sub plug, I used a TR-4 and it worked well. It solves both the ~6V Ford remote-on voltage issue (for amps requiring 12V turn-on, like mine) as well as providing a 1sec turn-on delay (helping avoid pop). In Feb 2020, I paid only $11 for a TR-4 on Amazon...
Thread Starter
Spring26
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
From: Minnesota
I Noticed there is no pop when turning on when the RCA's are Unplugged, I think I am going to go with the TR-4. I dont really feel like running more lengths of wire and it's easy enough wire that in.
Thread Starter
Spring26
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
From: Minnesota
You need to add some type of Line Output Converter to the signal before the amplifier as your Pioneer amplifier does not accept factory speaker level inputs. The way you have it wired now, the factory subwoofer wire out of the factory amplifier is grounded to the chassis of the amplifier which is grounded to the chassis of the truck. Purchase a Kicker KisLOC2, then wire that before the amplifier and use the remote turn-on that it creates as it's a DC Offset turn-on, then your issues are resolved.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1YGS3VIuqc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1YGS3VIuqc
It is not Speaker Level output as far as I know and others have stated on here. I used forscan to activate the factory plug for the Factory sub option so I would NOT have to use a Level output converter. To my understanding it is low level that a amp would accept directly. which in my case it does just fine, the only issue is popping when starting.
F150 Vendor
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 559
Likes: 452
From: Nashville, TN
It is not Speaker Level output as far as I know and others have stated on here. I used forscan to activate the factory plug for the Factory sub option so I would NOT have to use a Level output converter. To my understanding it is low level that a amp would accept directly. which in my case it does just fine, the only issue is popping when starting.
Aftermarket radio = built-in which is why it has a heatsink and why the factory ACM does not.
Aftermarket amplifier = has a separate input or a switch to change this.
When you change the ACM to “low-level”, it’s the same as you just turning down the volume on the factory stereo. You did not “convert” the signal, that’s why a LOC says “converter” and not voltage reducer.
Use a KisLOC2 and it will resolve your issues and provide the conversion you need + a remote turn on.
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Custom Stereo Packages and Installation Components designed specifically for the 2015+ F-Series Platforms
Check us out at https://soundsgoodstereo.com | Follow us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/SoundsGoodStereo/
