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That's interesting, DH. I may experiment with this however, with the fuse tap, I have no need to splice into the oem harness. It's not involved in this. It's only a redirection of the power wire from the DSP to the fuse panel, fuse 23.
DH, I checked out the Forscan string you put up in my truck and it is set already to '0' where you have it. That string in mine says '0001'. I also looked up that checksum in Forscan and the only reference I see for 726-41-02 refers to the double honk disable unless I'm simply missing a different reference.
DH, I checked out the Forscan string you put up in my truck and it is set already to '0' where you have it. That string in mine says '0001'. I also looked up that checksum in Forscan and the only reference I see for 726-41-02 refers to the double honk disable unless I'm simply missing a different reference.
Mine says, 726-41-02 0100 0001 0173. Obviously different from yours. It may not even reflect the same module as yours so, I'm guessing I can do nothing to make a change. So, I guess I'll do the other.
Thanks for the reference if only to show that things can change from year to year.
Today I installed the fuse tap in fuse 23. I discovered that it wasn't as straightforward as it should be as the tap had to be slightly modified to fit the fuse socket. A little filing is necessary on the sides of the tap to rid it of the leftover 'flashing' from the manufacturing. If you use these, it will be necessary every time you use one. All I have to do now is to run a wire back to the DSP power wire and make the connection. I'll test it first before I make it permanent. May do this tomorrow.
I hope this ends up being the fix for you fingers crossed.
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Had a break in the weather today so I went out to the truck and worked on redirecting the power from the DSP to Fuse 23. With the DSP hooked up in this way, I did a number of tests. All test situations that was causing the 'thump'. Unlocking the door, remote starting, returning to the truck after doing whatever and opening the door and noting when the amp shut off. Those were the four things that were related to this issue. I am happy to say that this issue is resolved. The DSP and amp do not turn on until I have turned on the ignition. The DSP and amp shut off immediately after shutting the ignition off. There is no lag time. Problem solved.
Had a break in the weather today so I went out to the truck and worked on redirecting the power from the DSP to Fuse 23. With the DSP hooked up in this way, I did a number of tests. All test situations that was causing the 'thump'. Unlocking the door, remote starting, returning to the truck after doing whatever and opening the door and noting when the amp shut off. Those were the four things that were related to this issue. I am happy to say that this issue is resolved. The DSP and amp do not turn on until I have turned on the ignition. The DSP and amp shut off immediately after shutting the ignition off. There is no lag time. Problem solved.
I had one more thing I needed to install for the DSP and that was to add the wired remote control. Not hard to see where I located it on the dash. It was the only practical place to put it. If you have push button start, that area is already occupied. So, I guess for now, my audio system is complete. Can't think of another thing I need.
02-10-2019, 10:06 AM
