dhmcfadin

Looks excellent! Great job! Little secret though, your system will never be complete lol!!!

MDXLT

Ok, I just thought of one more thing I could do. Run a remote wire from the 4 channel amp to the JL's integrated amp so, I did this. Now all three components, DSP, 4 channel amp and sub amp, power up within seconds of each other. Note I didn't say 'all at the same time' because that doesn't happen. I still get an odd start up but, it's not a big deal. It's a lot better than the thumping I was getting before all this. I do have one other thing I'm going to do and that is to install speaker baskets for the door speakers of which I have the baskets already. Later on this spring.

I've learned a lot of valuable things doing this audio upgrade over the past almost a year now. A lot of great advice was given me by some very knowledgeable people. I'm fairly certain that if I do something like this again, I'll be further ahead now with all the knowledge I've gained. It also served to remind me that instruction manuals are merely a suggestion by the manufacturer that if you follow most of it, you can get by. But, there are things in them can stop you from exploring other options if you don't know any better or you don't get advice about.

One in particular that sticks in my mind is that in the Dayton instructions, it says that the RCA inputs are for home theatre application and doesn't mention the the RCA inputs can also be used for car applications as well. I already knew that option existed for car installation, I just found it odd that Dayton would only mention home theatres for this option. I also found out that none of the components need to be remotely connected to the HU in order to use this option on the components themselves between the components. Does that make any sense? Anyway, that's how mine are hooked up now and everything operates as it should. I'm sure anything I've said on this is well known by many but, it's kind of new to me as it's been a long time since I've played this game.

shellshocked

I just received my Dayton 408 today. On the remote - what does it control? I read that it does not allow control of a single channel - aka subwoofer control.

MDXLT

It controls the presets, 6 can be set, outside of also having volume control within the Dayton itself. It has no other purpose. I also might add that in order to switch between the presets you set up, a quick push on the **** is required. Don't press and hold. Set it to the number you want and press the button. I'll add that the Dayton instructions are very vague so, if you have anymore questions, I'll try to help. I might add that the software that comes with the Dayton is first rate. You can use it with your laptop, iPad, iPhone or Android. You can control your channels and sub among other things, in the software via any of the aforementioned devices. Laptop only if you don't have the Bluetooth dongle.

dhmcfadin

In regard to controlling sub level and pretty much any other feature on the fly, I would highly recommend the bluetooth dongle.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...p-408--230-502

30 bucks. No need to run a hardwired remote once you start using this.

MDXLT

This is so true. The wired remote is not necessary [except for those that want it all like me ]. It does add an extra measure of function though albeit, a limited function. I could also say that the Bluetooth dongle is the most useful option available for the 408 with the ability of controlling so much more adjustments through you iPad/iPhone, etc. It's all good.

dhmcfadin

My hope is they will come out with a firmware update to allow the hard wired remote to work as a sub level remote.

MDXLT

I have a seperate tone control for my sub. Is a 'tone control' function what you are thinking of?

dhmcfadin

Most dsp remotes offer tone control, sub volume control, master volume control, and sound profile selection. I wish the Dayton offered sub volume and tone control.