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think of it like this. the crossover is what determines what frequencies go to each speaker. the full range signal coming from your radio/processor goes into the crossover. that then splits the signals, in the most basic terminology, between highs and lows. it sends the highs to the tweet and the lows to the mid. you can re-tap the stock wiring after the crossover to feed the signal to your mid in the door but you will have to run a new wire from the crossover to the tweet.
When you add the FOR-11CK, the connector off the HU plug into the FOR 11 first and then the FOR 11 plugs into the HU. The FOR 11 is in between the HU and the OEM connector. In the right pic, it shows the FOR 11 connectors. One goes to the head unit (male), the other (female) plugs into the OEM wire assembly originally plugged into the HU.
think of it like this. the crossover is what determines what frequencies go to each speaker. the full range signal coming from your radio/processor goes into the crossover. that then splits the signals, in the most basic terminology, between highs and lows. it sends the highs to the tweet and the lows to the mid. you can re-tap the stock wiring after the crossover to feed the signal to your mid in the door but you will have to run a new wire from the crossover to the tweet.
That makes sense, I also looked at the crossover and it made sense when I could see what wires go into and come out of it. Guess I needed a nap with street names. LMAO!! Thanks y'all.
Thanks for the drawing! What is the truck side and radio side? I apologize for the lack of audio knowledge, I thought I was good until I started upgrading my truck system. Now I'm trying to get my 12" sub to sound right and figured might as well go ahead and look into upgrading the whole system...
If you look at MDXLT photo of the wiring that's a good example. The connector has a male and female side. If memory serves me correctly the female side is to the speakers and the male side to the radio. If you are wanting to upgrade the entire system, are you going to need to look at an amp or two and a DSP. That's kind what happened to me. When I got my 17, it did not have a sub and my old truck did. I started there and just replaced the entire system (it's a work in progress) do you have a budget in mind yet?
I finally got my sub to sound great, figured out that the dual voice connections on back of the speaker were wired incorrectly, who'd thought the wires need to be in the right place to work right... I am wanting to upgrade the whole system, I don't really have a budget, don't want to waste $$$ either. I found some JBL 6.5" woofer, crossover and tweeter kit at best buy for $116, I may go get. But I'm not planning on doing the whole thing in one weekend, right now I am just happy I finally got bass!!! It will be a slow process as well. Any recommendations for door speaker kits preferably less than $150? Thanks.
I finally got my sub to sound great, figured out that the dual voice connections on back of the speaker were wired incorrectly, who'd thought the wires need to be in the right place to work right... I am wanting to upgrade the whole system, I don't really have a budget, don't want to waste $$$ either. I found some JBL 6.5" woofer, crossover and tweeter kit at best buy for $116, I may go get. But I'm not planning on doing the whole thing in one weekend, right now I am just happy I finally got bass!!! It will be a slow process as well. Any recommendations for door speaker kits preferably less than $150? Thanks.
Morel Maximo 6 will blow those JBL out of the water. PM HushCarAudio on this forum. I'm sure he can get you a deal and he provides speaker adapters for free.
Morel Maximo 6 will blow those JBL out of the water. PM HushCarAudio on this forum. I'm sure he can get you a deal and he provides speaker adapters for free.
06-21-2019, 11:56 AM
