trying to install FOLTUSYMY underseat powered subwoofer in 2015 XLT F150....I believe I have the speaker wires tapped into the correct wires in sill plate bundle... RR+ (brown/white) RR- (Brown/Blue) LR+ (white/green) LR- (brown/yellow)....what I cannot find is ACC power in this bundle please advise. Thank you

 

First, try using the Auto Turn On switch on your amplifier without a remote wire. Based on the product description, they don't specify what technology it uses — it's typically either Signal Sense or DC Offset.
If it's DC Offset, you're all set. You can confirm this by turning the radio all the way down — if the amplifier stays on, that means it's DC Offset, and you're good to go. Signal Sense will work too, but it can be a bit finicky.
If you want a reliable, dedicated turn-on signal, adding a PAC TR4 to your setup will give you a proper DC Offset trigger.

 

thank you for your reply. I tried using the high input pigtail without the remote wire connected....still no power...
I have tried to cover all the bases here…here are some pictures of the following:
1. 12 volt power to battery with functioning fuse
2. Wire spices in rear door speakers that are as follows RR+ (brown/white) RR- (Brown/Blue) LR+ (white/green) LR- (brown/yellow)
3. The spliced speaker wires terminating at the high to low level converter… yes it is in the rear and not directly off the radio but this should have no bearing on the unit powering on.
4. Connections to the unit for the main 12v wire / remote turn on wire / and ground. The power and ground from converter box terminate here as well.
5. A picture of where the unit is grounded directly to the bed of the truck and I did remove paint to expose bare metal.
6. You can see voltage readings for the main power and the remote wire
7. While the unit will light up clearly the green power light remains off and dormant. I have attached a picture of the auto off button depressed and pressed…no change in the green power light. (current set up with low level converter box provided by manufacturer.
I have replaced the 15 amp fuse and know it is working condition. I am open to suggestions at this point as to what I might be missing. Thank you again!

1.

1.A

2.

2.

2.

3.

3.

4.

5.

5.A

6.

6.A

7. On (depressed)

7.A Off (pressed)

no green light...my flashlight is illuminating it some, but it is off.

another view
Thank you for your consideration of this matter

 

Wire nuts?

 

give a guy a break...just trying to make sure it all powered up before doing the buttoning up...routing wires and actual splicing or soldering...I know...call it like you see it. lol.

 

As long as he goes back and does it properly, fine. I've seen stranger things.

 

The auto turn-on will not work if you are using an external LOC. You need to use the internal amplifier LOC, the white plug next to the RCAs, labeled H in the diagram.

 

The unit came with a pigtail for the internal LOC for the corresponding (4) speaker wires (labeled H on diagram)...I did try to power the unit with that pigtail alone...independent from the RCA's and external LOC provided....made sure the speaker wire connections were correct and the switch was in the right position and still no power...If I did something wrong please advise and I'll try again. Not new to DIY projects, but new to audio DIY. Thank you for your patience and for the help.

 

Hmm, it might be a signal sense that requires music to be playing to turn on, sometimes there is a decent threshold it needs to see. Either way, upgrade to a Kicker KISLOC2 that generates a remote turn on or use a PAC TR4, keep it simple and proper.