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That's a really nice piece. Would that work with the Sony in my 16 if through Forscan I flatten the EQ and change the sound output to low level? Or is something like the DSR1 still needed?
i think this amp automatically flattens the EQ. I’m assuming it should do whatever their lc does or similar to a fix86.
Make sure the Carav still works with the 2018s. It won't with the B&O system (as far as I am aware there is no harness yet for those, could be wrong) but might with the stock.
I also use the Audison 8.9, see my in-progress build thread in my sig. I am replacing my speakers next week with Focal components in front and coax in rear. Right now the Audison drives the stock B&O speakers. Sounds great, though I am not pushing them nearly as hard as I could because I don't want to blow the stocks (for example in the Audison config I have about 9db of gain left for the tweeters and about 5 for the doors, which is quite a bit of headroom).
The Audison is excellent - cleans up the factory signal and the DSP is excellent, though it takes some time to tune via software. The B&O presents some challenges, such as not passing full range to the doors, meaning I had to use both the tweeter and sub inputs, and since it only has 6 inputs I had to add an LC2i to grab the high level inputs from the sub (I used the 6 on the Audison for the 4 doors + tweeters). Bit of a pain but worked great. You may have the same problem with the stock; depends if it is sending full range to the door speakers or not - if it does, the 8.9 has active crossovers that can easily filter the freqs out so you only have to tap in to those.
If the harness doesn't work you'll need to cut and solder wires like I did. For amp turn on, I don't recommend signal sensing (flaky in my experience) instead tap one of the post-ignition accessory fuses like #38 in the passenger kick for amp turn on/off.
This week I am going to play around with Forscan some more, disable the fake engine noise (your STX probably doesn't have this) and see if there is a way to get full range to the doors at least. If so I can use the passive crossovers the Focal components come with and run everything through the 8.9. I'll also be able to bridge both channels this way (from 8 to 4). I'll keep my build thread linked in my sig updated.
Thanks for the great response. I use FORSCAN so I might just change to low level and solder some RCA cables. Although if I go this route were would I get the input for the sub amp?
I have the stinger 9 wire and can solder the RCA for the front and rear but I will need a signal for the sub amp and not sure where this would come from.
Any advice would be great!
I am not familiar with the stock 7 speaker setup on the 2018, only the B&O. However I believe the stock is unchanged from the 2015-2017 model? If that is the case there's a separate plug for the sub you can activate with Forscan I think - in fact I think the Parrot harness accounts for this.
Another option, if you are using something like the Audison 8.9 (or the JL Fix 86 and some others) is as long as the door speakers are being fed a full range signal you can use the Audison's active crossovers to filter the correct freqs to the right outputs (sub, mid, highs) easily. Just tap one of the door speaker wires (rear passenger is easiest). However I am not sure this would work correctly if you use Forscan to flatten the signal. In that case as long as you activate the sub you can probably pull right off it. If the 2018 stock is like the B&O you will need to run new speaker wires to the tweeters regardless but best to check around and see if someone can pull the service manual for the stock wiring for you here. That is what I did for the B&O and it really cleared things up.
That's a really nice piece. Would that work with the Sony in my 16 if through Forscan I flatten the EQ and change the sound output to low level? Or is something like the DSR1 still needed?
The benefit that you get with the DSR1 is a. you don't have to cut any wires from the factory harness, you completely replace the factory sony amp/dsp/sub and utilize its proprietary F02 harness. b. it has a built in feature packed dsp which the lc 6.1200 doesn't have. However, you could upgrade to the d-6.1200 which has AC's dsp built in but it would require you to cut your harness up and you'd have to make forscan changes to low level. I have the dsr1 and it is stupidly easy to install and the best part is, everything stays factory and no wires are cut so if and when I sell my truck, I unplug three harnesses from the back of the truck and reinstall the sony amp/dsp/sub. Everything is back to factory in 15 minutes. The DSR1 has come along way in the last month alone. When I first bought it, there were bugs, but things have improved dramatically. Currently very happy with my setup.
Here are some pics of my current install. No sub amp yet but I'll get it complete soon. (and don't worry, my distribution block has a cover, its just not installed in this pic). Made the amp rack out of 1/4 ABS plastic and a blow torch. Excuse the extra holes, I initially had different equipment installed but needed more power so I upgraded to the 6.1200 and went active.
Setup:
AudioControl lc-6.1200
AudioControl lc-1.1500 (Should be coming out next month)
Morel Tempo Ultra 602's in the front (active crossovers)
Morel Tempo Ultra Integra's in the rear
3 x Skar Audio VD10's under the rear seat. (as soon as I have the amp, I'll start building the box)
DSR1 to tie everything together
Tuned with Room EQ Wizard and a MiniDSP UMIK-1 mic
nice work. interested to see what you think about that amp.
The amp is phenomenal. Very powerful, very loud, very clean, no noise whatsoever. AudioControl's customer service can't be beat. Give them a call, in most cases, an engineer will answer the phone. My favorite feature though is that you don't need a SMD DD1 or oscilloscope to set the gains. The 6.1200 has built source clip and output clipping lights. I simply put my test tone track cd in, set all gains to zero, turn the volume on the truck up until I see the source clipping light illuminate. Then I turn the volume down 1 notch, for me it's 27. While still playing the same tone, I now go to the amp and slowly start turning up the gain on each channel until the output clipping light is illuminated. Truck is very loud and virtually no distortion. Extremely useful and saves you the cost of an extra piece of equipment like a DD1 or oscilloscop. Takes all of 5 minutes.
I'm leaning toward the d-6.1200 when it comes out but not sure its enough to push the 2 kicker 12" subs. Maybe I will give AC a call. I already have the 2 alpine amps from previous install but not sure I can use them fully unless have a fix86 or something similar
The benefit that you get with the DSR1 is a. you don't have to cut any wires from the factory harness, you completely replace the factory sony amp/dsp/sub and utilize its proprietary F02 harness. b. it has a built in feature packed dsp which the lc 6.1200 doesn't have. However, you could upgrade to the d-6.1200 which has AC's dsp built in but it would require you to cut your harness up and you'd have to make forscan changes to low level. I have the dsr1 and it is stupidly easy to install and the best part is, everything stays factory and no wires are cut so if and when I sell my truck, I unplug three harnesses from the back of the truck and reinstall the sony amp/dsp/sub. Everything is back to factory in 15 minutes. The DSR1 has come along way in the last month alone. When I first bought it, there were bugs, but things have improved dramatically. Currently very happy with my setup.
Here are some pics of my current install. No sub amp yet but I'll get it complete soon. (and don't worry, my distribution block has a cover, its just not installed in this pic). Made the amp rack out of 1/4 ABS plastic and a blow torch. Excuse the extra holes, I initially had different equipment installed but needed more power so I upgraded to the 6.1200 and went active.
Setup:
AudioControl lc-6.1200
AudioControl lc-1.1500 (Should be coming out next month)
Morel Tempo Ultra 602's in the front (active crossovers)
Morel Tempo Ultra Integra's in the rear
3 x Skar Audio VD10's under the rear seat. (as soon as I have the amp, I'll start building the box)
DSR1 to tie everything together
Tuned with Room EQ Wizard and a MiniDSP UMIK-1 mic
How is your DSR1 connected to the LC6.1200? I have the same amp and was curious on how to connect a DSP. Do you fun the factory speaker signals into the dsp, then rca out to the amp, then amp to speakers? haven't opened any boxes yet, but plan on installing everything this weekend.
How is your DSR1 connected to the LC6.1200? I have the same amp and was curious on how to connect a DSP. Do you fun the factory speaker signals into the dsp, then rca out to the amp, then amp to speakers? haven't opened any boxes yet, but plan on installing everything this weekend.
So the DSR1 in combination with the F02 harness utilizes all the factory plugs for the input and output side of the factory Sony dsp/amp. That means that the output (meaning output from the head-unit) side of the Sony factory harness is connected to the F02 harness which then plugs into the DSR1. That's all that's required for signal input. For output to the amps from the dsr1, there is a plug that has 8 rca outputs that go to the amp. You can see in the picture I attached, the red circle is where the output rca harness runs behind my amp rack to the 6.1200. Finally, to connect the amp output to the truck, you utilize the second half of the F02 harness. Wire the harness to the output channels on your amp and plug it into the harness that goes out to all of your factory speakers. With the Sony system, each speaker has its own channels so you have left and right tweeter, left and right door speaker, center channel, left and right rear channel, and sub. Because the system is plug and play for all channels input and output, there is no need to run new wires. You literally only need power and ground for the amp. Even the DSR1 is powered off the factory 12 volt source that the Sony amp ran on. It's a super clean and easy to install.
So the DSR1 in combination with the F02 harness utilizes all the factory plugs for the input and output side of the factory Sony dsp/amp. That means that the output (meaning output from the head-unit) side of the Sony factory harness is connected to the F02 harness which then plugs into the DSR1. That's all that's required for signal input. For output to the amps from the dsr1, there is a plug that has 8 rca outputs that go to the amp. You can see in the picture I attached, the red circle is where the output rca harness runs behind my amp rack to the 6.1200. Finally, to connect the amp output to the truck, you utilize the second half of the F02 harness. Wire the harness to the output channels on your amp and plug it into the harness that goes out to all of your factory speakers. With the Sony system, each speaker has its own channels so you have left and right tweeter, left and right door speaker, center channel, left and right rear channel, and sub. Because the system is plug and play for all channels input and output, there is no need to run new wires. You literally only need power and ground for the amp. Even the DSR1 is powered off the factory 12 volt source that the Sony amp ran on. It's a super clean and easy to install.
appreciate it! My truck doesn't have the sony setup so I'm wondering how i would flatten the signal before the dsp or if I can flatten it through the lc6.1200, run to the dsp to process everything, then back to the amp to output to the speakers... maybe i'm over complicating it.
03-12-2018, 03:08 PM
