Ggarcia6493

I was using the EQS746. My truck got totaled last week. So I don't have it anymore .

Hugo89

Hi, thanks for the whole quote, I'm having two pairs of 6.5 coaxial focal expert series and also got a pair of focal tweeters for the front pillar, so by reading your thread, I not recommended to do so? I was hoping to have them working as components just with some more high tunes from the tweeters, thank you.

dhmcfadin

You do not want coax and tweeters running together. You want components in the front. More tweeters is not how get louder or brighter. Tuning is how you do that.

Splinterman

Hi All,
I have an '18 Lariat with the B&O 'premium' system and I'm thinking of adding an EQ to tune the sound better. I've been out of the car stereo loop long enough to know I should ask for suggestions from those who are well-versed.

Is adding an EQ possible and if so does it have to be anbled through FORScan? I want to keep the head unit but I'm open to changing out/changing any other components. I appreciate any suggestions and also advice on what equipment might be best.

Thanks in advance!

dhmcfadin

B&O requires the NavTV Zen a2b amplifier replacement module to add an external dsp and amp. There are no forscan changes to be made with the b&o system. Your best money spent would be to just replace the speakers in the truck. If you want to do more, the next step Zen a2b, dsp, and amp.

Splinterman

Thanks for the advice. Do you have any recommendations on speakers and specs/capacities?

I know much of it is personal taste. I like crisp highs and a strong bass.

Again, thank you.

dhmcfadin

Budget minded: Morel Tempo Ultra 602 front and Morel Tempo Ultra Integra in the rear.
Higher end: AudioFrog GS 10 tweeter, GS60 or GS 690 mid bass, GS610c crossovers.

Both exceptional highs and exceptional midbass.

HushCarAudio

Great recommendations.

beidle99

Sorry guys, going to revive this old thread. I have a 2016 screw xlt sport 302a sync 3 with Nav and 7 speakers, no Sony. 5.0 so I don't think I have engine sounds pumped in. (Not sure about this.) I have read many threads and i seem to get a lot of different ways to do the same thing. Just trying to go this done without a lot of trial and error. I did all the wiring and set up in my 2010, but the programing with sync 3 is the scary part. Trying to keep all alerts, chimes, and functionality as stock as possible, just want better music
I saved my Infinity kappa 5 amp, LOC, and RF 10" shallow mount out of my 2010.
plan on upgrading door speakers to 6x9 and 6.5, keeping sync 3. Was thinking kicker or infinity for doors. Any other recommendations? This is a lower level budget so I don't want $500 door speakers. Just want it to sound better and not distorted at mid to higher volume levels
I already have the For-CK11 harness in my amazon cart. This is the correct harness correct? Plugs in at cd player?

My amp can do low level rca or high level speaker leads and can sum for the sub output. Instead of using my loc or getting a DSC can I forscan to change my outputs of sync 3 to 5 volt and eliminate the need for both? The amp actually has rca adapters so i can turn speed wire into rca type wires.. Amp also has auto turn on, will it keep the system working as stock? Or is there a confirmed wire on the 11ck harness to act as amp turn on instead of auto turn on? Or do I need the remote wire to kick panel fuse location? If needed what fuse to turn on with the hu, like when you open the door the screen turns on, or will this drain my battery?
if I keep the center speaker conected to the HU directly will I keep my chimes and alerts? Wasn't sure where the alarts from the speakers come from


I think I got all my questions in one giant post...lol

KenHannan

Not sure about 5v conversion via FORScan for the speaker level outs, but I think I recall seeing something about that. I went a different route.

With the harness (which I'm not familiar with), it seems that the factory speakers will still be connected to the SYNC 3, which you don't want if you're planning on using an amplifier. You'd want the head unit outs to go to your amp, and then speaker outs from the amp to your speakers. So you probably didn't need the harness.

I upgraded my non-SONY system 2017 SCREW after I got it. JL Audio 5x7 component speakers for the front (I had them already, 6x9 would have been better), mid-level Alpine R-Series 6.5's for the rear, JL Audio sub. Both are very good speakers and the system sounds excellent. I left the center console speaker in, I think that's where the chimes occur, I still get them, and then upgraded it with a small Kicker speaker - it's not very involved with the stereo sound compared to the other speakers anyway.

I splurged and had a sound place do the install, a first for me as I've always done auto sound myself. The speakers are powered by 2 Alpine amps: 1 for the 4 door speakers, and 1 for the sub (they sell one that can do both too). The way they did it was:

SYNC 3 head unit speaker outs >
Audio Control LOC >
Amp Speaker outs >
Back to the head unit speaker wiring which of course go to the speakers. Except for the sub which is direct Amp > Sub,
Remove factory speakers and install the new speakers.

The amps and LOC are located behind the rear seat. They used multi-wire cables to handle head unit to LOC, and then Amp back to head unit's wires going to the speakers. So I assume they cut the speaker wires behind the dash to do this. 4 wires per speaker (2 out, 2 returns for each), using two 8 wire cables I believe.

The LOC is optional as the amps can do speaker level ins, but I upgraded after the sound place install to add it in, definitely an upgrade there and well worth it IMO.

One problem I had was with Auto Start (or better Auto STOP) which would silence the amps and the system whenever I was stopped. Resolved that with ForScan to disable this annoying feature.

As for the auto-on for the amps (and LOC), pretty sure it's the one on the upper right, 2nd one down, #36 ? It's on this site, somewhere.

A lot of work but worth it if you're into sound.