Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

I am sure that HUSH as well as others know that there is a roll off on the rears. He wasn't disagreeing with you totally. Just not clearly.

HushCarAudio

Sorry if that came off as the wrong way. I was honestly asking if there was a reason to use the rear channels for signal that I wasn't aware of.

KenHannan

No problem... no reason that I know of to use the rear channels for signals. In fact, on my setup, I'm pretty sure that I used the fronts for all 4 channels through the LOC because I didn't want the effects of bass rolloff.
Scratch that. I think the LOC indicated that the rear speakers are used for the bass output, so that wouldn't be good w/ the bass rolloff from the rears. So I connected the fronts to the rear inputs for the full bass signal passed to the subwoofer amp, and the rear signals to the front inputs. It just affects the fade control, which I really don't use.

beidle99

Soory in advance, long post..

So I spent the 8 hours to do my install yesterday. Power and remote bass volume up the driver side, remote run and 2 feeds of speed 9 wire down the passenger side, that was tough by the way, lots of cables lol. The type I got was wrapped in a Faraday protection, but why run the risk of hiss or ground sound running with power wires. Crossovers and amp all mounted on a board behind the 60% seat. So it's easy to add some things or expand in the future. My board needs work to make it look clean, right now it's just a piece of 3/4 ply connected to 2 Simpson Strong tie htt4 hold downs, mounted to the seat bolts (on top, I didn't want to unbolt the seat for safety reasons). Everything is mechanically fasten to existing hardware, aka it can be returned to stock in a matter of hours. The holdowns were perfect distance, my amp has about 2 inches clear in front with seat down, and it doesn't touch when folded up.
Infinity reference 6x9 woofers in door, tweeters in the stock a pillar location. 6.5 reference in rear doors. Had to run separate tweeter wires from my crossovers since I did this. My 10" RF R2S is under the rear seat. Need to pick up some sort of brackets so it doesn't slide all over the rear seat, easy fix with a trip to home depot.

Everything work for sound and sounds good. I did have to turn my sub gain up to almost max. Using fuse 23, amp turns on with start of key and does not turn off until door is opened. I did loose the feature of turning on the radio without the key, amp will not turn on without the key. Is there another fuse besides 23 to use to get this back? I also lost my door chimes and alerts through my speakers. There is a setting on my amp to try, it tricks the radio into thinking there is speakers connected when using speaker level inputs. Going to try that. Any other ideas to get chimes back through door speakers? They still come through the dash, and radio mutes.

currently my sub is up Fire, will making it down Fire make it sound different or deeper? My amp has a sub sonic filter that removes movement from the sub that are not audible to not waste energy. It goes from 10htz to 80 htz. What should I set that at?

KenHannan

> It goes from 10htz to 80 htz

I have my sub set to low pass of 80hz, so you should be fine there. Some may say 50 hz, but I like it set at 80.
As for down firing or up firing, the subwoofer should fire up, otherwise it would be out of phase and not sound as good nor as it should.

jdunk54nl

Sub sonic filter is a high pass and it should be set to lowest possible if a sealed sub woofer. If ported, set to port tuning frequency.


Your comment on downfiring or up firing is not right at all....phase has nothing to do with up firing or down firing for a subwoofer.

OP I would suggest passenger side downfiring
That's is based on this post:
https://www.f150forum.com/f30/jdunk5...4/#post6423577

KenHannan

Sorry misunderstood what a sub sonic filter is, you want have 80 hz or less going to the sub...
On up firing, I guess it depends on whether you sub speaker is pointing down or up (or at an angle, like by JL Audio box). The subwoofer speaker should "push" outwards when putting out sound. If the +- are wrongly set, and it pushes in, it's incorrect.

jdunk54nl

Not true at all....all speakers move both in and out....phase is only comparative to other speakers. A single speaker does not have phase problems and even switching polarity, you would never be able to tell that was done on a single speaker.

KenHannan

Disagree, there's a definite difference whether the speaker has reversed polarity. But I'll leave it to the expert(s) to explain further. I'm out.

jdunk54nl

The only way there would be a difference is if the speaker acts differently when moving in compared to out. This would be a very poorly designed speaker if it sounds different by flipping polarity.

The goal of a speaker is to get its full stroke (max in to max out) as uniform as possible to where it doesn't change how it sounds as it moves.
You don't want to hear a speaker, you want to hear the sound it is supposed to produce. What you suggest is that you are hearing a speaker.