Well, if I remember correctly, the voice button did work on my 2012 XLT, so the Pioneer I have will do it; getting it all wired up and working here might be a different issue.
I am so tired of having a tacky suction-cup Garmin in the windshield and a puny screen for a display; I am going to make this work.

 

Lol, sounds like alot of us with OEM LED headlights using a RR or TRS halogen to LED harness.....lol, sorry had to...I /we KNOW the struggle.

 

Have you set DIP 1 on?

 

@Brian Baker - forgot to ask, just curious. I saw a video where our fords do not have a switched 12vt source for the radio as it is built into the system buss (or something like that) and one needs to tap a fuse under the hood.

• Did you run an amp with new speakers, if so does dash kit have the 12vt switch?
• I was thinking of running the crappy stock speakers until I can get everything I need for amps, speakers, wiring and such. normally I have a shop do it all, but I wanna give it a try this time. Does the dash kit allow you to use existing speakers with an aftermarket deck?

Not related to dash kit...but - also wondering how people are mounting amps and securing gear to the aluminum body without dis similar metal reactions.. the video I saw the guy was just running normal screws into the body as well as grounding the amp to the body. Not sure If I can ground to the aluminum or if I need to find a frame ground underneath...
thanks!

 

For the record: 2016 F150 XL 2.7L SuperCab, 101A, tow package, stock HU (for now) w/rearview camera

A little bit of background:
I already did most of the hard part months ago when I absolutely could not stand the lousy sound, so I did what I could to get me by.
I tapped the stock speaker level outputs into a LLC, then to an equalizer with built-in crossover, then RCA cables to each of my 2 amps, then back to the speakers & sub. When I install my Pioneer in my dash kit (it can't be soon enough lol!), I will remove the LLC, equalizer and just go with the Pioneer HU straight out to the existing RCAs to the 2 amps already in my truck (a monoblock for a Sundown 12" shallow sub under the back seat, and the other amp a 4-channel for the door speakers). The sub amp is wired with a 4-guage kit and the other, a separate 8-guage; both straight to the + battery terminal.

• The amps are mounted behind the back seat, flat against the back wall, not straight to the metal, but mounted to a felt-like material that lines the back wall so I guess the amps don't even touch metal. I didn't do "the big 3" or anything like that. I did bolt the main ground wires to a decent-sized bolt at the bottom of the back seat mount and it seems to be a good ground (Hell if I know if it's aluminum or not). But, from what I understand, even if it is, aluminum carries current about 2/3 as well as copper, so it is a pretty good conductor)

• I got 'remote power on' already from a wire under the dash that sure as hell wasn't the blue I was used to. I had to go searching with a meter and I cannot remember the color. I was just winging it at the time and didn't document jack squat lol. Maybe the kit comes with a remote lead connector. We shall see.

 

Just ordered the Face plate off eBay. hoping it will be here in the next couple of days. get my deck installed.

 

Showed up today...probably be 2 weeks before I can get to it though

 

Nice, MF.... Any idea yet, as to what HU, your going to get?

 

There is no true remote wire on these trucks. (a wire, that when you turn the HU off the amps and other electronics connected via the remote wire, also turn off) There are plenty of 12v switched wires however. The remote wire is a separate circuit built into most aftermarket HUs.....

 

I was reading somewhere that the little brown wire in the OEM sub harness was a remote wire. But I think it's a low (6V?) voltage.