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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 07:09 PM
  #11  
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And do all these trucks have this thicker paint along the edge?


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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by OilFieldCash
And do all these trucks have this thicker paint along the edge?
It's not paint but a chip guard/heavy clear. Yes, mine has it.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 10:51 PM
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http://www.langka.com
Watch the videos- order the blob remover and after washing and the nanoskin touch up your paint. The next day use the blob remover and then seal.
I used clay for 15 years and will never again.
I panel wash my truck and then use the nano on that panel, wash again and dry.
Two bucket method (three because the nano is in its own bucket with some soap) with grit guards.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by OilFieldCash
And do all these trucks have this thicker paint along the edge?
Gravel guard. Ford uses it on most of their vehicles. But, no not all trucks have it. Mine does though
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 11:47 PM
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Thanks guys for all the info. I assumed it was for protection against rocks chips. Wish the paint was some what thicker, rock chips drive me nuts. I've watched tons of videos for tips on getting it to look better.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by OilFieldCash
Thanks guys for all the info. I assumed it was for protection against rocks chips. Wish the paint was some what thicker, rock chips drive me nuts. I've watched tons of videos for tips on getting it to look better.
Thicker paint does not equal more chip resistant. Ford's paint is not really that thin, compared to say, Toyota. You can burn through their paint with a gray scotch brite pad, especially on white.

I blocked out and buffed the nose of my truck awhile back, came out mint. Posted a thread about it. I'd say 70% of the replies were, "be careful, you'll thin out your clear too much," " you are brave I would never do that" "I can't believe you didn't burn through. " I've been working in a body shop for 15 years, I knew what I was doing. I had to use a PTG to prove that I barely removed any clear!! haha!! Oh well, that's this forum for you.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 12:54 AM
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Too bad your not closer haha. I have entire pickup to sand down and paint.... Everyone around here wants $10k for a single stage of black paint with me doing the body work... I paid 10% of that for the damn truck 14 years ago lol.
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 12:17 AM
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I googled ' rail dust on white car ' and that's exactly the Orange rust spots I saw in my paint. I guess growing up far away from anything I never knew of such. I live near tracks now and I guess it's coming from there.
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by OilFieldCash
I googled ' rail dust on white car ' and that's exactly the Orange rust spots I saw in my paint. I guess growing up far away from anything I never knew of such. I live near tracks now and I guess it's coming from there.
Comes of your brakes. Will be on your tailgate, and behind your wheels as well.
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 01:57 PM
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Rail dust often can come from many possible sources, one that is often forgotten about is the snowplow blade its self. If you live in snowy areas that plow the road you will get the "organge bloom" in mid spring as the iron starts to show.

You can get these off many many.

Old fashion clay works well, but many times you need to polish as claying can haze or mar the finish some. It works my shearing off the iron, sometimes it pops it completely out other times only the top, same thing can happen with the method used below.

clay towels/pad made by SA Arnold or Nano Skin and other is the newer tech. Use the proper glide lube and it will greatly minize the marring or hazing of the paint.

Use of X disolving chemical products ie. CarPro Iron X or Iron X snow foam, this disolves the iron embeded in the paint with out harming the paint.

I personally like the towel/pad method for most situations, but if its bad I use Iron X.

Cheers,
GREG
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