Hello, first time caller, long time listener.

I'm looking to wire up my CB and some interior/exterior lights on my 2015 f150. Really hate to drill/cut anything, so does anyone know of a way to run wiring through the firewall?

Also, stupid question, but could I run multiple toggle switches from just one wire off the battery (to power leds & additional reverse lights)? AND on that note, would it be smart to run power from unused fuses in the fuse box, or straight from the battery?

I apologize in advance for any 12v system ignorance.

 

There should be a gromet you can push some wires through on drivers side i think.

Multiple switches off of 1 power i would say yes but not good idea. I would tap each device with their own power and fuse and than use a relay for the toggle switchs.

 

Might not be the best way, but this is my plan...

I will source power from the battery and run a 10 gauge wire from the battery down the fender well and entering the cab through a grommet in the passenger floor. From there, the wire goes through the channel at the door sill to the back of the cab. The power wire will be fused at 30 amps right at the battery (I think that is right amperage).

I will install a small fuse panel (for me, behind the rear seat) and then run each load from there to wherever it needs to go. I'll also pull a control wire off the fuse panel in the passenger toe-kick to toggle those circuits that I want working on switched power.

 

Thanks guys.

I'm obviously not a college educated automotive wiring pro, but I want to get this right the first time and not have battery issues. So with y'alls input, I've devised the plan below, please set me straight if it is incorrect:

1. Run a 10g wire from the battery (30A fused)
2. Tie said 10g wire into a blade-type fuse block (I found a 6 fuse at 30A per branch, think that would work?)
3. Connect CB radio & toggle switches for added equipment (interior LED lights & reverse lamps) to new fuse block
4. Connect the equipment to the toggles
5. Ground 3 toggle switches and the equipment (think i could tie the grounds together and just run 1 wire to a grounding point? if so, what gage is recommended?)

I've also debated running my CB off 'switched power.' Should I go that route, would it be advised that I use an 'add-a-fuse' on the passenger kick-panel fuse box into an unused 10A factory fuse?

Sorry for all the questions, thanks for all the answers, and I'll pray to do this correctly and not set my new truck on fire.

 

Use this as a guide to wire size versus load versus length.

https://www.tessco.com/yts/industry/...get_wired.html

I'm being conservative in my wire size and amperage. You likely need way less than 30 amps. Add up all your stuff, double it for conservatism and select wiring instead of parroting me. I have one or two potentially high loads I'm planning for. ( Inverter, for one)

I'm probably choosing a fuse block with a ground buss on it, but it depends on your circumstances. This item was recommended to me from someone else on the forum (MGD), and I like it, so I'll likely order it this weekend.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/503...Bus_Fuse_Block

It is likely excessive for your needs. I'll power half the split buss using a control circuit from the toe-kick fuse panel controlling a 40 amp bosch type relay.

I haven't picked which fuse to try, but I'll try to work that out this weekend.

 

i'm not familiar with the "15 but on my wife's '12 and my '13 there is a large grommet low on the fire wall on the drivers side. It's probably 3 inches in diameter, and really well sealed around probably about a 1 inch diameter harness. I punched a hole off center through that and pulled my switch harness through into the cab.

Also I installed the sPod system on my wife's truck back when it was still mine. Its a bit pricey but I think its worth it for the functionality you get. I attached images of my switches mounted, and my the sPod mounted to my engine cover

Check out 4x4spod.com. If you get this kit you'll still have to order switches.

 

There are two grommets like you say, one each side. From inside the cab, I can't see where it enters. Too much crap in the way. I'm loath to punch through the grommet even though I doubt it would ever leak. I'm still going the rout of using the floor grommet. The wire will be exposed for a short distance under the cab. I think I can live with it.

 

Did some investigating on my 2015 XLT.

For the toe-kick fuse panel, it looks like 35, 36,and 37 are switched. I'm choosing 36 as it looks most benign. Those are the three on the bottom in the left hand column.

Under the hood, the entire block of fuses 93-113 is switched. I noticed that the unpopulated locations don't seem to have terminals under them, so you still have to use a add-a-circuit. I did not see a way to bring out a wire without cutting a kerf in either the lid or sidewall, however.

Both locations use mini fuses, not the low profile mini fuses, so make sure you get the right add-a-circuit.

So, for me, I have a plan now.

 

You guys rock. I think I too have a plan. Very much appreciated!

 

Please verify your own work. I think I'm right, but your truck may be different or I may have missed something.