The threads don't have anything to do with the separation problem on these plugs. The plug comes out with the threads in tact, the problem is the lower half (below the threads) is still in there.

They would change the heat range of the plug before using antiseize to do it, in fact they spec a slightly different plug now.

 

Here's the current TSB if anyone is interested: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ke...sb08-07-06.pdf

 

I am well aware of the problem with these plugs the original design was in two pieces the center electrode section and the outer threaded section. When you try to remove the plug the threaded outer section comes out but leaves the center section in the head.

My reference to VW heads was illustrating the idea put forward in this thread of dissimilar metals chemically welding together. The heads on the Triton engine are aluminum, and the spark plugs are steel the lower section does not appear to be plated if you look at the photo's I posted of a set of these plug that have been removed you can see the corrosion. The is the same thing that happened to old VW's the aluminum threads chemically bonded with the threads on the unplated spark plugs so when they are removed all of the threads are pulled out with the spark plug.

Here are some very good instructions about how to get these plugs out. http://hubpages.com/hub/SPARK-PLUG-R...-3Valve-Engine Good luck, better ye then me.

 

The TSB referenced in that link has been superseded by that in my link above.

You're basing your hypothesis on the picture of the plugs you posted that are not broken? Take a look at what the ones that break look like, still think it's corrosion rather than carbon build up?


Credit goes to BJV269SS for the pic.

 

It is carbon.

 

How would anti-seize compound on the threads of the plug change the heat range enough to make any difference? I have been using anti seize on the threads of plugs since I was a cub, and that was many many moons ago.
This sounds like poppy **** to me, but I am always ready to learn.

 

Hey Gator, did you take notice of the fact that the plug that broke shows signs of advanced corrosion on the shield? Look close, you can see the rust spots where the shield is galled.

 

I really don't think it is rust. Mine looked almost identical to those in the picture and the crap that wiped off was carbon without any signs of rust. And yes, two dissimilar metals in the presence of a catalyst= a battery. Usually a steel plug in an aluminum head will corrode on the threads REALLY bad, the metals don't weld together. My plugs had 0 signs of damage to the thread and 0 signs of foreign matter on the threads.

 

Well I guess the answer is to attack both rust and carbon, so that is what I will do. All the pictures I have seen show both.

Has anyone out there had a problem with crap in their cylinders after using the Lisle Tool? I bought one and it is a nicely made tool for a reasonable price, I just wonder about the ceramic crushing into the bottom strap electrode.

Has anyone removed all the plugs and then cranked it over to blow out any residual crap? I know, this is a risk too.

At any rate, Thank God for Yankee ingenuity trumping incompetent engineering.

 

Hey Guys. Just bought a used 2005 F150 SCrew King Ranch 4x4 with 136K. I am thinking that I will replace the plugs soon , though they may have been replaced already but not sure. All information in this thread will help.

The question I have is what is the recommendation on replacing the coils? Is is like a vehicle with plug wires, where they normally should be changed with the plugs, or are they as needed? They are a bit more expensive than changing wires on a vehicle.....

Thanks for the help!