SparkPlugs
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 5,001
Likes: 154
From: Arlington Heights, IL
Hey Guys. Just bought a used 2005 F150 SCrew King Ranch 4x4 with 136K. I am thinking that I will replace the plugs soon , though they may have been replaced already but not sure. All information in this thread will help.
The question I have is what is the recommendation on replacing the coils? Is is like a vehicle with plug wires, where they normally should be changed with the plugs, or are they as needed? They are a bit more expensive than changing wires on a vehicle.....
Thanks for the help!
The question I have is what is the recommendation on replacing the coils? Is is like a vehicle with plug wires, where they normally should be changed with the plugs, or are they as needed? They are a bit more expensive than changing wires on a vehicle.....
Thanks for the help!
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 45
Likes: 8
Its not all that Hard
Its not that hard guys. Buy the Lisle tool, do it on a nice day, soak the plugs and wait. Move all the stuff out of your way like the computer etc. I added MMO and Berrymans ChemTool B-12 to my fuel for four fill-ups prior to attempt. I think it helped a lot. Broke one plug, used Lisle Tool, blew plug wells and cylinders clear before installing new Motorcraft plugs coated with anti seize. Please Wear Goggles, and read Fords TSB on this issue. Dont wait for 100K Miles, do it sooner than later. I got the tool from Amazon, and the plugs online for around 8 bucks each. You will need several extensions, a universal, and a breaker bar. I used a 1/2 long breaker bar with a 3/8 reducer for feel for the first 1/8 turn. Even after solvent soak they will squeal. This is normal with these plugs. DO NOT USE AIR TOOLS, you have to feel your way through this. I am 64 and did it. Keep your cool, and take your time.
Good Luck, Me Hearties
Good Luck, Me Hearties
Last edited by jagans; Jan 11, 2011 at 08:23 PM.
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 45
Likes: 8
Where have you been?
This issue has been discussed ad nauseum, with a lot of very good recommendations. Dealing with this is not that bad if you follow the tech service notes, and the good recommendations posted on this and other sites. Yes it is a screwed up design. No, do not take it to a ford dealer. Your best bet is to do it yourself, but a decent mechanic can do it without too much trouble. I broke one out of 8, but I was prepared with the lisle tool and got the broken one out pretty easily. The key is patience, and a sound plan. This assumes you have the Lisle plug removal tool in hand. Dont start without it.
1. Run engine to temp, then shut down, Removing everything in your way. This includes battery connections, battery, computer on dash. Bungee back hoses and wires. Mark for correct replacement.
2. Blow plug wells clear with compressed air (Safety Goggles)
3. Remove COPS.
4. Blow clear again.
5. Squirt Motorcraft recommended solvent into plug wells, and wait an hour.
6. Back off plugs 1/8 turn.
7. Squirt again, and wait several hours.
8. Remove plugs. I used a 1/2 inch breaker bar so I could feel the force I was applying better. Squealing is normal, but unnerving. Squealing is actually good, because it signifies that the plug has not yet broken. If you feel resistance increasing,stop. spray again and go to the next plug. You can return to the one giving you trouble.
9. If a plug breaks, use the Lisle extraction tool. I had to cut grooves in the side of mine to make it like a tap so it would grab.
10. Blow all cylinders out by extending a tube to the top of the pistons. This will remove chips, and solvent, and avoid the dreaded "Hydro Lock" Really do this thoroughly, at high pressure, especially if you used the tool.(Safety Goggles)
11. Coat threads and barrels with nickel based anti seize, and install new plugs.
12. Re- install removed items.
The above is my opinion on how to accomplish this task, and what I did successfully. It is given freely, and in a spirit of helping other Ford Truck owners. I pulled my plugs at 68K Miles after hearing of this. I did not wait for Fords service interval, which is, I believe, 100K. Plug removal will be more difficult with greater carbon build up, so it is prudent to add some sort of additive to your fuel for a few tanks before tackling this job. I used Berrymans B-12, and MMO in my fuel. There may be better ones out there. Good Luck, and please do not blame me if your results differ, I take care of my vehicles with regular oil changes, etc. An oil burning vehicle is probably going to be a real PIA, due to carbon deposits.
1. Run engine to temp, then shut down, Removing everything in your way. This includes battery connections, battery, computer on dash. Bungee back hoses and wires. Mark for correct replacement.
2. Blow plug wells clear with compressed air (Safety Goggles)
3. Remove COPS.
4. Blow clear again.
5. Squirt Motorcraft recommended solvent into plug wells, and wait an hour.
6. Back off plugs 1/8 turn.
7. Squirt again, and wait several hours.
8. Remove plugs. I used a 1/2 inch breaker bar so I could feel the force I was applying better. Squealing is normal, but unnerving. Squealing is actually good, because it signifies that the plug has not yet broken. If you feel resistance increasing,stop. spray again and go to the next plug. You can return to the one giving you trouble.
9. If a plug breaks, use the Lisle extraction tool. I had to cut grooves in the side of mine to make it like a tap so it would grab.
10. Blow all cylinders out by extending a tube to the top of the pistons. This will remove chips, and solvent, and avoid the dreaded "Hydro Lock" Really do this thoroughly, at high pressure, especially if you used the tool.(Safety Goggles)
11. Coat threads and barrels with nickel based anti seize, and install new plugs.
12. Re- install removed items.
The above is my opinion on how to accomplish this task, and what I did successfully. It is given freely, and in a spirit of helping other Ford Truck owners. I pulled my plugs at 68K Miles after hearing of this. I did not wait for Fords service interval, which is, I believe, 100K. Plug removal will be more difficult with greater carbon build up, so it is prudent to add some sort of additive to your fuel for a few tanks before tackling this job. I used Berrymans B-12, and MMO in my fuel. There may be better ones out there. Good Luck, and please do not blame me if your results differ, I take care of my vehicles with regular oil changes, etc. An oil burning vehicle is probably going to be a real PIA, due to carbon deposits.
Last edited by jagans; Feb 13, 2011 at 05:15 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 368
From: North Dakota
Ive heard lots of whining and bitching about changing plugs on a 5.4 motor. Never really had a problem changing plugs by myself in my life, granted never done so on this motor, but is it really as hard as they say? Ive seen people say they payed 500$ to have a mechanic do it but considering ive really only ever had to change plugs in any vehicle ive owned at around a 100K is it really this big of a deal? I just bought a 2010 with a 5.4, dont plan on changing plugs for a while, but i dont really view it to be a life changing experience, am a wrong and in for a surprise?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 368
From: North Dakota
also, im no genius, but seen lots of people complaining about breaking them but what exactly breaks? the porcelain? isnt that all outside the cylinders? How hard is that to keep out of the cylinder? im failing to see the difficulty in this, guess im in for a treat when i try to change them, heh.
DIY
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 11
From: South Florida and NYC part time
you have to read the sticky.... to change the spark plugs is not hard or different than any other engine. the thing, is that this motorcraft sparkplugs most times break in two or three pieces... and you need an special tool to remove it. read the sticky.
here it is:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...09-07-a-56871/
here it is:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...09-07-a-56871/