Anyone done this, I know it can and has been done. Just wondering the cost at a shop and how frame holds up after being cut and welded/reinforced?

Of not that, how much to swap a cab and drivetrain to a shortbed frame?

 

You'd really be ahead to just sell yours and buy a short bed. The work involved in cutting it down is going to be huge, if you can't do it yourself. The front AND rear of the bed have to be sectioned then the frame has to be shortened to match. It can and has been done but requires a lot of man hours by skilled people. I'm not a body man but, it wouldn't surprise me if it took 50+ hours in labor alone. Just figure that times what ever the local labor rates are where you live, then add in supplies. Strength wise, the frame would be fine if done by someone that knows what they're doing.
As for swapping your cab and drive train into a short bed frame and bed, that might be cheaper, but still a lot of work. First you'd have to find a good frame with bed, the rest would be mostly labor. But then the point of the frame and body VIN not matching. Depending on your state it may or may not be a problem.

 

The least expensive way out (and easiest) would be to shorten the frame, fuel lines, and brake lines and grab a used short box, driveline, and e-brake cables from the wrecking yard...you might even find one the right color and you may be able to work out a trade in discount with your long bed.

As far as how the frames hold up??? Classic truck owners have done literally hundreds, if not thousands, of these mods and if the work is done by a competent fabricator and welder, they are just as good as a regular frame. The best way is to measure, measure, measure, 'Z-cut' the rails, and use a welded fish plate inside the rail. When the outside of the rail is finish welded and ground smooth, it's virtually undetectable. You will have to determine what the measurements are for your year and typically the end of the frame gets bobbed a few inches or so as well as a section between the rear cab mounts and front leaf spring hangers.

 

Hadn't thought about just getting a short bed and shortening the frame, good idea. Would save a lot of work and money. And like you said, if done by a good fab shop, the frame shouldn't be anything to worry about. Shortening and streching frames is something hundreds of off-roader's have done with no problem, just make sure you use a good shop.

 

This is stupid....$$$$

 

So is "Flowmaster Exhaust, line-X, Sky Jacker leveling kit. 305/55/20 BFG M/T KM2 mounted on 20 X 9 Carol Shelby wheels. AIRAID CAI & Throttle Body Spacer. Projector/Halo headlamps and LED Tails & 3rd brake lights,custom upper and lower Grill. Edge Evolution. Interior/Exterior LED lighting".

In other words, to each his own.

 

Thanks for info...and f100builder that's funny^ haha

 

No problem...I have a friend that's done this to two '67-'72 C10 frames in his garage and he then simply plopped a short bed right onto them. If you have a capable welder and are capable yourself, it can be done at home for next to nothing other than the cost of a used bed and a little scrap steel. I wouldn't recommend it for someone with limited experience however so if you're not comfortable with it, get someone who is. I tried to get my hands on a long wheelbase frame for my '69 as the shorties are hard to come by. I want to shorten it, freshen it up with some rust bustin' and new paint, and maybe a Mustang II IFS. For the back, a coil over 4-link or Mark VIII IRS. Sadly, the one I all but had in my hands was scrapped...

 

Yea won't be doing plasma cutting and welding myself but I know some people, appreciate your input