Hey, everyone. Slowly but surely working on the old '85 to fix it up, but I'm getting stuck right now. Browsing the LMC catalog, I'm looking at the replacement dash pads and covers. I'm pretty confused, they list a PAD in only black for $420, but COVERS in the original colors for around $120+. My current (cracked apart) one is blue, but I'll probably change it to black for the look inside I want. I'm assuming the more expensive dash pad is what I'm looking for despite only coming in black, but if it is, I'm fine with the color. The diagram the catalog shows that the pad has the speaker vents like the original, so I can only guess that one is the correct part. If I'm wrong, I'd love to know before I spend more than I need to!

Also, another question I have has to do with the window seals and channels. Mine are just shy of completely gone, so my windows rattle and leak like crazy going down the road. I'm planning to buy the full channel kit for both sides at $80 per kit, but if I get that, do I need the channel rubber and lift channel also listed? Sorry for all the probably dumb questions, this is the first vehicle I've really gotten this involved in

 

The pad is an ABS plastic frame with foam on top, and heat-formed color-matched PVC "upholstery" over that. That's why it degrades in the sunlight, and turns to powder - especially in the speaker grill where there's more surface area exposed to direct UV. And because there are so few of these trucks left on the road (low demand for the part), a replacement pad is $$$, and only available in paintable black.

A "cover" is just a skin (made of carpet, or some rigid plastic) that you set on top of your degraded pad to hide it. If it's plastic, expect to put some physical effort into making it fit down onto the pad, including carving away some of the buckled & blistered original pad. Fit it, then remove it, then glue it down permanently.

There are SEVERAL wearing parts in the windows. If you post detailed (but not TOO-close-up) pics of yours, we can help you choose the right replacements. Shop RockAuto, BroncoGraveyard, TascaParts, Amazon, ebay, Mac's Antique Auto Parts... There are also cottage-built parts that might interest you, including a 3D-printed speaker grill to embed into your original dash pad. You can find it with a little searching at this link:
http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/

 

There we go, got some halfway decent photos. You can easily see the window channels are pretty well open

 

I can see you're missing 3 & 7 in this diagram, but 8 is probably shot, too:

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That would be the $68 kit near the top of this page: https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Doo.../products/600/ , but there are other suppliers so shop before you buy.

 

Thanks, Steve. That photo you attached is really small for me, like barely the size of my (real) thumbnail lol I tried clicking it, but it didn't enlarge it or anything else. I saw the $68 kit you mentioned, but because of the photo, I don't know what part 8 is. I'm glad to learn of these other places for parts, too! I was planning to get everything from LMC.

Edit: Never mind, the link is now working for me out of the blue I see the parts now, and I had no idea there was weatherstripping INSIDE the door!

 

What are you using to browse this forum? A real web browser like Chrome on a fullsize monitor? Or a phone app?

The weatherbelts aren't really "inside" the door - they're at the edges where the glass goes in. Of course, the glass track & run have to go most of the way down inside to hold the glass in-place there, but the run goes up the front & back, and across the top.

 

I'm using Chrome on a desktop. So, correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like I just need the kit for $68 you mentioned?

 

Yeah, like I said before. That'll replace the window parts that I could see were missing from your pics.

It looks like it could also use a piece of headliner material, a RV mirror, a dash pad or cover, either new tint or peel what's already coming off, a horn pad or a different (later) steering wheel, some felt in the dash registers to keep them where you aim them...


Just FYI (many people don't realize it): that's a tilt steering column, so if the key gets sloppy or tight, it's about to break.


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Do you have the key to the hood pull? Does it still lock? This caption will help you collect & organize all the truck's details into your signature:


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Sorry it's been a while, just been too busy working to get back on here lately. I ordered up the window parts I need and they're on the way, should be here by Thursday. The steering column does tilt, but they key doesn't feel bad, pretty smooth. However, the top portion of the column where the wheel and key are is kinda loose on the lower section. I can move it side to side a little as well as up and down when it's locked in place. I have a feeling the only fix may be a new column, but hopefully someone can say otherwise? And yeah, the hood pull does have the lock, still works. My door sticker for all the info is completely faded and right about impossible to read, especially the series of info along the bottom for the trans and all that.

Another quick question I have; There's a knocking or rattling sound that SEEMS to come from the engine while cruising, say 2000+ RPM. I normally only drive 60mph most days, but it does seem to get louder as the RPM climbs. No noise other than lifter ticking at idle and have not had a chance to verify oil pressure, though my dash gauge read in the normal range. I know I've got an oil leak somewhere and I suspect it's the rear main since the oil is mostly on the bottom of the bellhousing, but it looks like there's some oil and grease/sludge on the side of the block around the filter boss. Running through nearly a gallon every couple weeks of Castrol 10-30

 

The column could be rebuilt if you could find parts for it, and if you feel like messing with it. It's VERY complicated, as that caption describes.

Take several pics of the door sticker in various levels & colors of light - you may find a photo easier to read than the real sticker.

All oil leaks collect at the bottom rear of the engine, so that's no indication of where it's coming from. Wash the engine thoroughly (it doesn't necessarily need a pressure-washer), let it dry, then let it idle while you watch for the first sign of oil. Follow it forward & up to the source.

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There are MANY potential sources for a sound that can be described as "knock or rattle", including exhaust leaks, broken engine mounts, loose frame rivets, worn engine bearings or low oil pressure...

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