I posted a few days ago about an ongoing issue with the rear driver side brake locking up after driving awhile. Here's what I've done so far. All new Brake hoses and lines. Tested master cylinder and brake boost, no hissing or loss of pressure or leak of any kind and pedal is solid when applied. All new hardware completely on rear brakes, everything from wheel cylinders to the holding pins. New E-brake cables, tested and are working correctly, drum does not drag when released. No binding and releases completely. System has been flushed of all contaminates and bled. Proportioning valve works correctly when tested. Light comes on with loss of pressure and goes off when pressure is reapplied. (valve recenters) Problem occurs after driving for a bit as you apply the brakes more it starts to slowly get a stiff feeling in the pedal and a slight metal squealing sound starts at the left rear tire. As you drive more it gets to the point where when you touch the pedal the tire locks up but releases when I let off the brake. I took it for a ride to get it to lock up and immediately remove the tire and drum. Other than being hot the drum was not dragging and came right off. Same as when it's sat for a few days. Really has me stumped. Not sure why it's only the left and doesn't affect the right side. I've compared both sides and they are exactly the same, everything is installed correctly. Anyone ever had this happen? Pretty sure it isn't pressure as both rear brakes share the same pressure. I'm going to try to open bleeder next time and see if that stops it for a bit or if it will continue. Trying to eliminate anything I can think of.

 

Are you sure the e brake cable is releasing?
If you look at the brake shoes are they seated at the top pin? Not floating at all.
Do you have the shoe with the longer material on the rear side? (if they don't match)
Last are all the springs in the correct locations.
I missed if you said all new hardware if it is.

 

yes the cable is releasing all the way. I can slip drum on and off afterwards no issues. Longer brake pad is in the rear. And I believe all the springs are in the proper location. Yes all new everything except backplate multiple times.

E brake engaged, notice pads separated at the top.

E brake disengaged, pads together at top.

Springs position.

 

That E brake lever is NOT released in the top photo
That lever should mostly be tucked behind the brake shoe when the E brake is released
You might not be able to easily see the shoe not contacting that upper pin
Take a big screwdriver type pry bar and pry against the axle to force the E brake lever back
Then test drive it again and verify the problem is gone

 

@Manicmechhanic007
I think you missed the post, picture is with e brake applied.
OP did you apply a lubricant on the backing plate pads where the shoes ride?

 

Maybe try backing off starwheel adjuster way off and remove the auto adjuster if possible.
then go for a test drive , see if anything changes.
been a while since I've been in the rear brakes on one of these trucks., maybe unhook the e brake cable and test drive see if any changes

 

No I didn't apply lubricant. I thought about that and wondered if the pads were sticking then slowly releasing after I parked the truck. I thought lube back there was probably a bad idea as not to get it on the pads. I never did see anything about it in a manual. I also wondered if it was a bend backing plate. Thanks for the idea I will try that.

 

I did unhook the e-brake and try it and no changes. I've also replaced the adjuster 3 times and no difference. That was the very first thing I tried. Didn't know if I could drive it without the adjuster installed. I'll look into that as well. Thank you..

 

OK good to know. I checked after you mentioned it before and it looked ok. Should've compared it to the other side to be sure. Apparently you can grease the plate where the pads ride. I honestly never knew that was a thing. Never saw it any manual. What would be the fix for the arm sticking if that's the problem? Maybe a good cleaning and a bit of white lithium grease would be helpful or the wave washer between the pad and arm needs replaced or may even be missing. Better double check that. Was always told NO grease in the brake area except on the the pins on disc brakes.
Thanks again, going to go try that now.

 

I was taught in the 70s and we put lube (finger wipe) on the shoe pad area.
So any chance this is a bearing noise?
Maybe lift the back end and run it and try and duplicate it.
Is that drum really get hotter or is the noise or both.