Bearings are good, no noise. In fact it's eerily quiet for an old rear end like this. If I get right on the highway I can go for hours with no issues until I start using the brakes a lot then it starts binding up again. No noise at all, did just replace front bearings though. Thought the new tires were a little louder than normal for about 20 miles then it was clear it wasn't the tires. Noise only happens when I apply pressure to the brake pedal. Going to do the grease bit and see how it goes. Always had a feeling about the metal on metal.
Thanks

 

The contact pads on the backing plate should have a thin layer of high temp. grease.

Afterwards, you should be able to rock the entire brake assembly back and forth when you alternately apply palm pressure at the 9 and 3 o'oclock position of the shoes.It should pivit freely on the top anchoring post. Also, the bar under the wheel cylinder should wiggle freely without any tension on it.

 

One more thing is when you inspect the backing plate, be sure the shoes haven't worn a groove in the pad area which would interfere with the movement of the shoe.

Any chance it's a bad brake wheel cylinder?

 

Well I wanted to give a shout out too everyone. Not sure which one worked, but after going through everything that was mentioned I believe we have a winner!! A few things I did, 1st I greased the back plate. We all grow up with Grandpa, dad or the neighbor guy who all teach us to do things a certain way because they always know best. Hence the reason, even though I always had a gut feeling, I never put grease on it before. Next thing I did was check to be sure the E-brake arm was returning all the way. It in fact was, with the tire off (Important fact), the end of the arm was actually touching the pad and that's where it stopped. Have to give a thanks to manicmechanic007 on this one. You were right and wrong, let me explain. You kept insisting it wasn't returning all the way which was a great thing. Upon checking this I noticed a very important piece that was put together wrong. The wave washer that goes between the arm and the pad was actually under the clip that holds the arm onto the pad. When I noticed this I got both wheels off the ground and simulated driving it. After a few minutes it was squealing. Checked the E-brake and wouldn't you know it, it was partially stuck. When I pull the drum off it would release completely that's why I could never see it. I noticed that when I released the E-brake the pedal would have just a bit of play with the tire on. Once I put the wave washer in it's correct position and added a little grease to the pin it works smooth as butter now. So far it's good. Did notice one thing however. The side I've been having issues with is missing the plug to the adjustment hole on the back plate. Other than the brake dust it looked fine. Now when I removed the other side which still had the plug in it it looked like a rust bomb went off. Also noticed I have an axle seal leaking down the inside of the back plate. And hear I thought the quiet side was going to be the best. Oh well, After I replace the top seals in my steering gear box I'll tackle that one. Hopefully have all this done buy winter as my plans are to give the motor some new gaskets and possibly bearing. Don't want to mess with the internals, 169,000 miles and it doesn't even burp smoke after not running for about 6yrs. Other than the chainsaw gas I used to start it so it was dry in the cylinders.
Thanks again everyone, 15 yrs and about 30 different forums and finally found you guys!!
Rory

 

Well after a few days of success I have to report the problem has resurfaced. Not sure where to go from here. Got the service manuals on the way so hopefully they get here soon. Think they had to print them, been a couple weeks now. Well I'm going to remove the brake cables and measure them to be sure they're the right length, then get "another" hardware and adjuster kit and see what happens. I remember the cables taking 2 people to attach but I think that was because the front cable was dirty and wasn't moving. I since cleaned it and it moves like new now and cables were much easier to reconnect. Unlike the original ones I replaced, the new ones are adjusted closer to the end of the bolt where all 3 cables join together. The original was more towards the middle. I assumed it was from stretching over time. As far as I can tell from different photos everything is in it's proper place. It seems almost like the self adjuster is over tightening the brakes. It works as it should when testing it. Almost makes me think I got the wrong year parts for the truck originally. I just matched everything to what was already there. Had to change the pads around as they were in the wrong position. Someone years ago mentioned checking the back plate to be sure it's not bent. I glanced at it then saw the price and moved on. I think I'll revisit that and see. Well here we go again.

Thanks,
Rory