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Really?!? Now the dreaded P0332 error code

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Old May 16, 2025 | 11:11 AM
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Default Really?!? Now the dreaded P0332 error code

Hello folks, back again.

I had the dead battery issue before and with the help of you kind folks I got that issue fixed. Now another problem has surfaced.

My vehicle is a 2021 F150 XLT 4x4 2.7L with 91,100 miles on it

My engine light is on, now. Took it to O'Rielly's for a free VeriScan, code P0332 Knock/Combustion Vibration Sensor 'B' Circuit Low, Stored, Pending, and Permanent. From what I gather from this forum the sensor is a $50-$60 part, but will cost $1500-$3000 parts/labor to fix it. That the 2 knock sensors are located under the manifold and everything has to come off of the top of the motor. I am mechanically inclined, but that is past my knowledge/skills. I have heard of other people cutting the wires to the old knock sensors, putting new sensors on the outside of the engine block and splicing those wires together. I know engine blocks have extra spare threaded holes for mounting various attachments that might need installed. So mounting new sensors on the outside surface of the motor sounds plausible.

Seems like vehicular manufacturers engineer their products for obsolescence and difficulty of repair. This way the make more $$$ off of you. So when something simple goes wrong the simple repair is too technical to do it yourself and you pay a fortune to have someone to fix it. And if you can't you'll buy a new vehicle.

I'm a simple country boy who is a disabled veteran. I need some real help here because I don't have the mega-bucks to fix this issue. I hope there's a TB or a recall involved here.

Thank you in advance and God bless you.
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Old May 16, 2025 | 03:02 PM
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Curious, what is the build date of your truck? Sticker on the door jam.

Automobiles today are engineered to fail. Very large appliances on wheels!
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Old May 16, 2025 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueLivesAntimatter
Curious, what is the build date of your truck? Sticker on the door jam.

Automobiles today are engineered to fail. Very large appliances on wheels!



I'll check when I get home.
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Old May 16, 2025 | 07:53 PM
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It could be just bad gas? Might be worth putting some 93 if you haven't already.

But from the little research that I've done apparently this is somewhat common on 2.7s


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Old May 16, 2025 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by donaldawbrey
Hello folks, back again.

I had the dead battery issue before and with the help of you kind folks I got that issue fixed. Now another problem has surfaced.

My vehicle is a 2021 F150 XLT 4x4 2.7L with 91,100 miles on it

My engine light is on, now. Took it to O'Rielly's for a free VeriScan, code P0332 Knock/Combustion Vibration Sensor 'B' Circuit Low, Stored, Pending, and Permanent. From what I gather from this forum the sensor is a $50-$60 part, but will cost $1500-$3000 parts/labor to fix it. That the 2 knock sensors are located under the manifold and everything has to come off of the top of the motor. I am mechanically inclined, but that is past my knowledge/skills. I have heard of other people cutting the wires to the old knock sensors, putting new sensors on the outside of the engine block and splicing those wires together. I know engine blocks have extra spare threaded holes for mounting various attachments that might need installed. So mounting new sensors on the outside surface of the motor sounds plausible.

Seems like vehicular manufacturers engineer their products for obsolescence and difficulty of repair. This way the make more $$$ off of you. So when something simple goes wrong the simple repair is too technical to do it yourself and you pay a fortune to have someone to fix it. And if you can't you'll buy a new vehicle.

I'm a simple country boy who is a disabled veteran. I need some real help here because I don't have the mega-bucks to fix this issue. I hope there's a TB or a recall involved here.

Thank you in advance and God bless you.
.
Sorry about your issue with the Sensor issue but don't do any relocation hack.
it will not work correctly in another location>>> even if the CEL does go off.
The Sensor is a tuned part for a specific application and location to detect when spark knock occurs.
It causes the Ignition timing to retard >>protecting the engine for serious damage.
Retarded Timing stops the damaging knock until it goes away.
Good luck.
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Old May 19, 2025 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueLivesAntimatter
Curious, what is the build date of your truck? Sticker on the door jam.

Automobiles today are engineered to fail. Very large appliances on wheels!

The build date is 3/21. Why does that matter?
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Old May 19, 2025 | 04:14 PM
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The build date doesn't matter at this point. I've read where Ford had some of the bugs worked out on the later build dates for the 2021's.

I would get 3-4 different quotes from shops and see where that leaves you on price. Since you know what it is, you don't have to be charged for a diagnostic fee. Where did the $1500-$3,000 price quote come from?
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Old May 19, 2025 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueLivesAntimatter
Curious, what is the build date of your truck? Sticker on the door jam.

Automobiles today are engineered to fail. Very large appliances on wheels!

I know this is fun to say but it is just silly. Traded in my 2012 F150 last year. Worst issue was the lead frame. Still drove and looked like new with 125K miles on it. If this was a 70's vehicle it would have probably gone through 2-3 sets of radiator hoses/belts. The AC would be dead, leaking oil like a Harley, valve stem seals (engine valves) would be bad, shocks would be shot, front end would be worn out, would be down on compression and pretty much ready for the scrap yard. Cars just fell apart back then. It's much more common to get 200K to 300K miles out of a vehicle today that is was back then.

The wife's vehicle is even better than my 2012.Just changed the water pump (2016 Explorer, not a fun job BTW), 160K miles on the clock. Everything looked good so reused the timing chain and guides (chain and guides can easily go to 250K), put a new crank seal and belt on but the both looked fine. Only other issue it has ever had was the canister purge valve.
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Old May 20, 2025 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by BlueLivesAntimatter
The build date doesn't matter at this point. I've read where Ford had some of the bugs worked out on the later build dates for the 2021's.

I would get 3-4 different quotes from shops and see where that leaves you on price. Since you know what it is, you don't have to be charged for a diagnostic fee. Where did the $1500-$3,000 price quote come from?
The quote I got was an estimate doing online research from other people having this problem and what it to to resolve the issue. Most of the cost is do to labor. The wire harness with 2 knock sensors and engine coolant temp sensor (also located under the air intake/fuel rails) costs about $60. The old engines I piddled around with, the knock sensors were located on the outside of the engine block on either side where a monkey could fix them. (Disclaimer: No monkeys were harmed or had their feelings hurt while making this message).
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Old May 20, 2025 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Mamushka
I know this is fun to say but it is just silly. Traded in my 2012 F150 last year. Worst issue was the lead frame. Still drove and looked like new with 125K miles on it. If this was a 70's vehicle it would have probably gone through 2-3 sets of radiator hoses/belts. The AC would be dead, leaking oil like a Harley, valve stem seals (engine valves) would be bad, shocks would be shot, front end would be worn out, would be down on compression and pretty much ready for the scrap yard. Cars just fell apart back then. It's much more common to get 200K to 300K miles out of a vehicle today that is was back then.

The wife's vehicle is even better than my 2012.Just changed the water pump (2016 Explorer, not a fun job BTW), 160K miles on the clock. Everything looked good so reused the timing chain and guides (chain and guides can easily go to 250K), put a new crank seal and belt on but the both looked fine. Only other issue it has ever had was the canister purge valve.

Yeah, but how inexpensive was it to fix and replace those parts on vehicles in the 70's? How easy was it to replace/fix those parts as well? A well trained monkey could do it, but I'm not well trained. Lol. Nowadays you have to access your vehicular computer diagnostics just to change out a tail-light bulb or change the blinker fluid (well maybe not that). My question is why did they engineer a $60 part, that in itself is easy to replace, to be buried under 2-3 engine systems that would take someone just short of brain-surgery (and cost of one) to fix? So you would have to take it to the dealer for service. Just like agriculture equipment, there should be a "right to repair" movement. If they can engineer a cheap part to be too difficult for a lay person to fix/replace, they can engineer it to be easy.
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