I’ve done a few intake and exhaust modifications on my 2020, F150 3.5 eco-boost. I recently purchased an MPVI3 tuner with the software. I’m reading into how to correct for the extra air going into the system, but was not sure whether our trucks tune based on mas, maf, or VE; and what order if needed calibrated. Is there anyone on here that might be able to give some advice?

 

You can look in the file and see if the maf is enabled. I thought those were speed density but I could be wrong. You don’t have to tune for an air intake unless the maf (if equipped) size changes. There are tons of ways to easily get more power out of a gen2 3.5 eb though.

 

Speed density tuned using the MAP. I have used HPT for GM MAF tuned engines for quite a few years. I made the decision, after looking at the limited amount of tuning data on the 3.5 eco on the HPT forum, to go with a 5 Star tune. Keep in mind this was in 2015, so I suspect there is considerably more info available today. I suggest you go spend a bunch of quality time reading so that you don't get yourself in trouble. And when you start making changes, do one small change, then do some logging to quantify what the change did for you.

 

Sounds good. I’m going to research some additional data about the speed density tuning and start there. I went through some tutorials yesterday and seen that I have to disable about every secondary adjustment with the engine to make sure the readings are true. Seems like this is going to be a long process to get it done properly. I was watching how you have to do two separate recording having one below and one above the power enrichment fuel change…is that the process you were talking about for the MAS first? They showed tuning it with the MAP but I’m assuming disabling one and tuning with the other can be done sequentially to calibrate both properly…?

 

There is rarely a reason to touch the speed density model, especially if all you did was minor bolt ons. You’re overthinking this. Assume that the stock calibration is dang near perfect and just change what you have specific reason to. Leave all the “secondary adjustments” on unless there is one specific thing that needs work, and even then there is rarely reason to turn off a feedback loop.

Start by change the PE delay to 0 and getting rid of 1sr gear torque truncation. Drive and log that and see how you like it. If successful, move on to adding more torque request. Once you start hitting other limits evaluate each one to determine if you want to raise them. You should be able to add borderline timing if running good fuel. You can also play with shift points and character.

 

I’ve watched the class about adjusting the requested torque values. I didn’t see anything about a PE delay so I’ll have to reference that. I haven’t run a test of the torque graphs yet. If I compare desired versus actual, I’m assuming I can monitor how close they are to be able to adjust them close to mirroring each other?

Timing will be after I’m comfortable with airflow/torque tuning. I’m understanding it pretty easily though.

I was thinking about the airflow first because I eliminated my resonator and 2.5” piping to go to a complete 3” from the cats back with a true 3” through muffler. I also have a K&N drop-in filter. I was thinking that might have changed it enough to need adjustments…thoughts? And thanks for the info!

 

Typo on MAS - should have been MAP. Sorry. Fixed the original post.

 

The stock Gen2 eb cal basically disables Power Enrichment. It sets a delay of something like 120 seconds. You can confirm this by a) looking in the cal file in the Fuel\Power Enrich tab and b) logging "fuel source" and lambda. This is one of the very first things I would address if calibrating this engine.

No...again...the stock calibration is very good and there shouldn't be any real variation between torque request and brake torque. You really should not ever have to change these unless you drastically alter the engine like different cams, head porting, compression ratio change, etc. What I'm referring to is the torque request under the Torque Management tab\Driver Demand Engine Torque and you see it only requests 450 ftlb. WOT start and end don't force the throttle open (nor should they), so the first way to get more torque from the engine is to increase the torque request from 450 to whatever number you're comfortable with initially. If it were me, I'd go up in 20 ftlb increments, but I know some just put 6042 ftlb or whatever max value it will take there. Eventually you will find that asking for more torque doesn't change anything because it hits some other limit such as manifold pressure, turbo shaft speed, LSPI load limit, etc (there are dozens).

Timing is much more complicated than you would expect.

The K&N filter will change virtually nothing. The cat back exhaust can change the turbine drive pressure model, but HPT hasn't done a great job of defining the parameters needed to modify that model.

 

Send me a PM with your email and I'll send you a wicked tune you can clone for your 2020. I wrote it, so no worries for those thinking otherwise.

 

There's WOT fueling delays, as well as VCT delays, and tables for that based on time. And they are all active and present in the 2020 ecoboost models.


I think you are way off base with much of what you are posting on this topic, having been involved in developing tunes myself and assisting with a couple tuning companies.....no offense intended

I typed a much longer reply and deleted it , as I don't want to get into it, ,as I find most of your replies and input excellent on this forum.