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Performance, Tuning, and (LEGAL) RacingPost discussions about increasing performance, capabilities, and racing.
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That didn’t look too terribly painful. Mine being 2wd should open up a little extra working room too. I hope to be home by mid-Nov then get the paint work done and get mine all installed.
That stainless works setup looks like quiet a spread. That transfer case definitely didn't do me any favors.
I'm passable as a mechanic I suppose, and that was one of toughest jobs I've done. The jack stands made me nervous. Any lessons I can learn from when yours slipped UNBROKEN?
Any time I have the front wheels off and vehicle on jacks, I lay the wheels down and push them under the frame/engine somewhere. Also when I take the pressure off the jack and onto the stands, I leave the jack under with just a sliver of space between it and the good jacking spot I used. One of those 2 things is probably going to catch the truck if the damn thing falls on me.
When I do my header install on my '12 I'll be putting the front wheels under the brake discs.
We installed stainless works on a truck recently. Starter had to come out, engine had to be tilted a little bit, and the motor mount on the drivers side had to come off (only because of a heat shield in the way which we knocked off for future ease of uninstallation and reinstallation.
took about 3.5 hours.
This is super old but any other tips? About to pull the trigger on some 2m headers but not sure how difficult install is and don't have a lift
This is super old but any other tips? About to pull the trigger on some 2m headers but not sure how difficult install is and don't have a lift
I did mine without a lift. It's big job, no doubt. Just don't be in a rush.
For me the most difficult part was lifting the engine so you can get to the front nuts. The passenger side was the worst. Lift it evenly on both sides. It's possible to jam the motor mounts if you don't raise the engine evenly. There are two good size aluminum bosses on the block near the rear. I lifted on those with two bottle jacks and wood block. Do not lift on the plastic oil pan.
FYI I did not use the supplied bolts. I used the factory studs, nuts and gaskets. They been on for almost 2 years without issues.
EDIT: Sorry I just realize we had been chatting in PM's a few weeks ago. Sorry about repeating myself.
I did mine without a lift. It's big job, no doubt. Just don't be in a rush.
For me the most difficult part was lifting the engine so you can get to the front nuts. The passenger side was the worst. Lift it evenly on both sides. It's possible to jam the motor mounts if you don't raise the engine evenly. There are two good size aluminum bosses on the block near the rear. I lifted on those with two bottle jacks and wood block. Do not lift on the plastic oil pan.
FYI I did not use the supplied bolts. I used the factory studs, nuts and gaskets. They been on for almost 2 years without issues.
EDIT: Sorry I just realize we had been chatting in PM's a few weeks ago. Sorry about repeating myself.
I did mine without a lift. It's big job, no doubt. Just don't be in a rush.
For me the most difficult part was lifting the engine so you can get to the front nuts. The passenger side was the worst. Lift it evenly on both sides. It's possible to jam the motor mounts if you don't raise the engine evenly. There are two good size aluminum bosses on the block near the rear. I lifted on those with two bottle jacks and wood block. Do not lift on the plastic oil pan.
FYI I did not use the supplied bolts. I used the factory studs, nuts and gaskets. They been on for almost 2 years without issues.
EDIT: Sorry I just realize we had been chatting in PM's a few weeks ago. Sorry about repeating myself.
Mike
Still good info.
Myself I went with LTH brand non my 2015. At 85k I reused factory gaskets and used the included bolts but they came with pretty good bolts. My y pipe required dropping the trans crossmember, not sure if others do
After waiting a full month for kooks to ship the updated ypipe, they finally shipped my headers and all. When it comes time to install is there anything I should be looking out for or any tips? I saw americantrucks.Com mentioned monkeying around with the motor mounts.
Headers are a pita! I literally just installed sw long tube headers and you better have patience and tie! get zip lock bags for all the bolts and screws you need to remove. Labels after removing each! I used jack stands on my garage for in 30 degree weather. starter needs to come out, all forward oem header bolts on right side( passenger side to make the new headers easier to go in. Spray plenty of lubricant on bolts and studs! remove cross member and heat shields and skid plates. remove motor mount bolt on driver side and 2 nuts for the right side. put a piece of wood on jack and center under oil pan and jack up engine about 2-3". Open hood and check to make sure overflow tank on top does not get hit when jacking up. I took 2 weeks but only actually worked on it for approximately 14 hours. Take your time or have someone help you and oh yeah take the inner fender liners out for easier access to studs. have a good set of ratchet style wrenches and sockets and at least 2 long extensions and a short one it helps!
If you unbolt the starter DoNot drop it or over tighten Any of the wiring screws! It will break the cheap plastic and it will cost $270-$500 for a new one. I know I dropped mine and broke the screw off where the plastic cap goes on!
Would lifting the cab not be easier? IDK. I've never lifted a cab on a truck before, but some act like it's fairly easy if you have access to a 2 post lift.
10-24-2019, 10:59 AM
