So I let my wife borrow my truck today. That was my first mistake. I took her car into the shop to the the tires rotated and balanced, then at noon I swapped vehicles. My truck is a 2000 F-150 Lariat, so it has the key-pad entry on the door - I always use this to get in for some reason or another. Anyway, when I made the swap, the door didn't open. So I used my key. Once inside I had to move the seat back (she's 5'3", I'm 6'3") and I noticed the seat was moving VERY slow, and I also noticed that the blower motor was running - but very weak. Turns out the truck wouldn't start. Battery was DEAD! So I pulled her car around and jumped it. Everything seemed to be fine and back to normal....that is until I got back to work. When I shut the truck off the blower motor kept running. Instrument lights and radio all shut off like normal, but the blower motor didn't. Is this an ignition switch issue? If so, I suppose this means I also have to fork out the $$$ for new keys too huh? HELP!!!

 

try unpluging the blower motor and fully charging the battery

 

I suppose I can give that a try. What's your logic with that though?

I had a thought that maybe it was a relay, but after going through the owners manual a half dozen times I couldn't find any listing for a blower motor relay - or anything related as far as that goes. I event went as far as making pulling every relay while the blower was running, but nothing stopped it. Perhaps there actually is no relay for the blower.

 

The ford Factory DVD states to check the Blower resistor and/or switch, that is for it not working. I suppose it could be failed on also. in my 2001 manual, maxifuse 105 in the Underhood power dist box, is for the front blower, is it possible the fuse has been shorted closed??

 

sounds like the GEM module. our superduty does the same thing and our mechanic traced it to the GEM module.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. All of this happened a day right after an ice storm. I got to thinking about this & one of the contributors possibly being the leaking windshield problem.... In preparation for the ice storm, I put a tarp across my windshield (I've never done this before). That next morning the inside of the truck had gotten a little wet from the water that found its way through the wringles in the tarp, through the door seal, and into the interior of the truck. It was this very same day that the problem presented itself for the first time. That said, I decided I would try a little experiment. I started my truck, turned the heat up all the way and set it to the floor only setting at full blast - I let the truck run in the driveway like this for 2 hours, all in an attempt to dry out the interior as much as possible.

Well, whether my phylosophy actually worked, or it was just dumb luck - after this 2 hour "dry-out" session, I haven't had a problem yet. Perhaps I reacted quickly enough before corrosion took place.

 

Glad you found the problem... at least glad it went away.

One thing, this is why I never jump a vehicle. It always removes any doubt if it caused a problem, or chance of messing something up.

Two things, "it possible the fuse has been shorted closed??" All fuses are shorted closed. If not, they are bad. Just a little thought for future reference. I think just maybe your water did cause the whatever is the control to be shorted out, whether it is a sensor or switch. Water does not conduct electricity, but the impurities in water does, so that may have been the culprit.

 

I get the Idea it might be a good thing to purchase a GEM and keep it in the glove box. Back in my Dodge truck days if you where smart you alway kept a couple of ignition ballast resisters in the glove box. All Chrysler ignition systems of this time started using 12 volts, once running it switched to 6 volts using the ignition ballast resister to do this, it was done to increase the life of the points, rotor, and distributer cap. It would fail for no apparent reason you could see leaving you stuck at the side of the road. To MOPAR people this was just a road side break, to others it was a prime ticket for crook mechanics to rip people off, replacing the points, rotor, distributer cap, and ignition coil when only the ballast resister needed replacement.

 

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