Yes, another shameless plea for help... Anybody with experience care to chime in on this? I replaced all 4 O2 sensors just because but, no surprise, all of my O2 sensor codes are still up. Here are the codes I'm suffering with:

P0135, P0141, P0155, P0161, P0174, P0340, P0443, P0500, P1000(duh) P1336, P1409, P1451, P1460, P1519

I am thinking that P0443, P1409, P1451, and P1519 may all be related and that what ever this problem is may be causing trouble with the O2 sensors? Evap... I ran an evap leak test and it indicated a major leak.

P1460 is also freaking me out. Could this all be related to a harness problem? I do notice that my AC is not working I checked all fuses >=15A.

$06 $01 value 1.004 normal range 0.502 - 0.000
$06 $03 value 0.502 normal range 0.000 - 0.000 up
$06 $03 value 0.452 normal range 0.000 - 0,000 down
$06 $26 value -63.898 normal range -8.486 - -7.488
$06 $27 value -63.898 (assume all of these -63 values
$06 $28 value -63.898 are open circuit? but I read
$06 $2A value -63.898 that it could also mean a
$06 $2B value -63.898 certain test wasn't run?)
$06 $2C value -63.898
$06 $2D value -63.898
$06 $42 value -0.203 normal range 0.000 - 6.989 up
$06 $49 value 4.485 normal range 2.995 - 0.000
$06 $4B value 45.323 normal range 0.000 - 80.000

This is driving me nuts. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

You have a major wiring harness break or disconnection. All the codes except P0174 are wiring related as the most probable cause. The P0174 is a intake or exhaust leak. Being you have a 4.2 I would say a intake leak which was causing your O2 sensor code.

 

Thanks Torkum!! Any idea where I should look? Can anybody point me to a wiring diagram on the net? I'll take a look at it after work today.

 

www.helm/inc.com You'll find the wiring diagrams for all of the Ford trucks and cars. I have the same 2002 4.2, last winter troubled with the PO171 and PO174 codes. Ford techs told me to replace the rubber seals associated with the black intake plenum. Took a couple of hours, $150.00 appx for the parts. Am waiting for the cold temperatures to verify if its fixed. Mine threw codes only on cold morning starts. Good luck. If you decide to do the job, I'll give you a couple of tips.

 

I would not worry about diagrams, just get under the truck starting with the O2 sensor wiring and start tracing back toward the engine looking for any rubs, burns, or breaks. Did you get the kind of O2 sensors that require you to do the wiring?

 

Well I crawled around under there and couldn't find anything. Everything looked good as far as the wiring goes...as far as I could see. There was one wire bundle that its plastic keeper was out of its hole but the bundle looked good and there was no sign of damage. I couldn't see all of the wire that is behind the engine though...

I did find a loose hose clamp on the intake manifold right after the MAF. Hopefully that is the intake leak? I'm going to reset the CEL again and see if that clears.

I'm still lost on the wiring issue for now. I'm curious if the non-op AC could help point to a location? Fan runs but the air isn't cold at all. I'm going to check out the wiring diagrams just for grins.

 

Go here for instant wiring diagrams under automotive repair section:
http://search.ebscohost.com/
user: greatfalls
pass: publiclibrary

 

I forgot to answer this question. No, I got OEM style sensors that plug right into the existing connectors.

 

possibly a bad gem module?

 

On OBD1 systems the are certain components that will continue to display the error code regardless. even after component has by replaced and will continue to show until proper function has continued for a specific # of warmstart cycles (either 40F rise in temp after start or engine reaching temp of 160F after start). There are two groups 1.those that require 40 warmstart cycles to clear and 2. those that require 80 warmstart cycles. It is possible that these are items that the Ecc had been required to disassociate missing or out of range input and substitute its own generic replacement. This is me attempting to give some possible rhyme or reason. the manual does not state, but I have observed that some O2 sens. and EGR related error codes simply clear w/normal reset method, yet some of the types related to them.end up on the 40/80 W/U cycles. I believe you can and should remove them and rebuild the ECC's Learn Tables. Alldatta recommends this anytime a sensor is replaced or function is restored. That is to clear your KAM. Its circuit feeds through a capacitor that retains energy to protect the stored information for 20 mins. after power source has been removed, to allow for short interruptions required for service or battery change,w/o loss of info. This is the method I Was instructed to follow. It is suggested that the battery has a full charge & alternator output checked and within acceptable range, initial timing checked( disassociated w/ PCM = pull spout plug replace after). With your present situation, personally I would retard any timing advance you might have to stock (10 BTDC) until scans come up clean. Once you get your duck in a row, you can crank her back up. To clear the KAM, with headlights on, disconnect battery for 20 mins. minimum. Turn light switch off anytime prior to battery reconnect. After battery is reconnected, the learn tables begin to reestablish the basic precedences as to function. I read where someone said they immediately start driving around with heavy accelerations to reestablish his learn table to enable better performance especially in acceleration. Which seem like a great idea except for a couple of obstacles. The Primary purpose of the PCM is to maintain a 14.7:1 air to fuel ratio to protect the cat.converter and insure its ability to function efficiently while allowing an acceptable level of drivability. To further limit the possibility of upsetting the PCM's 14.7:1 applecart the truck's performance ability is purposely detuned at the factory before delivery. So, While you were choosing options that would make things easier on you like A/C, power everything,cruise control...The PCM picked out 10 BTDC, Restricting supply flow to air intake, mild cam.... you pay for your picks w/ a check & the PCM's with cost in performance. If he wants the PCM to take his desire for a faster rate of acceleration seriously, he has to give it some mod that effectively increases the rate of compression to chew on. Anyway, what it will tolerate is influencing the Idle. When you restart, let the Idle settle where it wants. if it levels down to normal idle speed supposedly that aught to do it. but I think the next procedure provides a better end result. The Idle seems to like to sit up at 1000 and eventually drops to normal when your not paying attention and during starts especially cold, will take too long to drop and tend to stay slightly above normal. So, now while idling, disconnect the IAC valve connector. If it has no effect it's broke. If it stumbles and stalls, good! Now, restart and nurse the idle down to the correct rpm a maintain. While you are supporting the idle at that rpm you will see it start to lock in and sustain itself but continue maintaining the correct rpm for 2 mins. more then shut off the engine and reconnect IAC valve. The time to shut off between steps is a little hazy but after adjusting my initial timing yesterday 1 min. worked fine so after 1 min., restart and as idle settles put your foot on the break and shift to drive for 2 mins. and shut off key for 1 min. then shift to park, start and after idle settles continue idle 2.mins and shut off. ! min. then repeat 2 mins. in gear w/foot on brake then shut off 1 min. For some reason every time I get to this point, it's always Beer:thirty!!! Somewhere. Initially while driving maintain varied, steady rpm's & accelerate from dead stops imagine there's an egg under the gas pedal. No not scrambled! Has to be at least hard boil. Continue till you get bored, hungry, or have something better to do. This method works for me. When I first bought my truck, the idle searched and was just ruff enough to get on my nerves. Now its hard getting used to the fact that just because I can't feel vibration doesn't mean it stalled. Oh yea,this should rid you of any phantom error codes, and any errors now are current.