I appreciate the help I have been given with my issues. I started out with the following codes;
327
328
452
628
and 542 which went away on its own.

I installed a new VSS sensor (Darn speed cable retainer clip was a pain to reinstall) which removed the codes 452 and 628.

Installed a new EVP sensor (Easy swap out) which removed the code 327 .
Was hoping it would have also corrected the 328 EGR code but no luck.

When installing the EVP sensor, I looked inside the EGR and it seemed to be clean as a whistle on the inside.

Note: My truck still has a misfire to it when holding a slight pressure on the gas peddle while driving and goes away with pressure applied.

Here is the thing; Good test thoughts to keep and pass along!

I was told to remove the vacumm line to the EGR and take it for a test drive to see if the mis goes away (Which it did). and while doing so, ignore the check engine light that will come on because it will notify me of the disconnected vac line (Which it did also).

Now I know that the EGR has a problem and my fix would either be replace it or try cleaning it.
The problem of cleaning it first is I dont know what to clean on it or even if I need to remove it to do so.

As I mentioned, the inside looked great and shined but checking the outside through the holes were dirty.
Should I spray something in the holes to clean the outside or does the outside not effect anything anyways?

Are there even steps to follow in cleaning?

I have read across the forum where users mentioned that they cleaned thiers. Is it really worth the hassel?

 

Considering a new EGR valve costs about $80 and a can of carb cleaner costs about $3 I'd say it's worth it to try and clean it. Cleaning the outside does virtually nothing, it needs to be removed to clean the inside passages of the valve and intake manifold.

 

That sounds all well and good.

Just a couple questions on cleaning the EGR.

The rusty shaft that the EGR connects with that runs behind the engine. Will it be difficult to loosen the large slip bolt that connects the shaft to the EGR? I figured I would ask inorder to give myself some extra time if needed.

Should I spray these bolts first with some PB Blaster?

Do I need any special supplies to clean these ports other than carb cleaner. I have a spray can of small engine carb cleaner for mowers, will this work, Or would it be better if I used automobile carb cleaner? Same purpose of use I would think.

I can also pick up acouple smokepipe cleaners if needed.

Will it hurt to spray carb cleaner onto the outside blatter of the EGR?

Sorry for all the questions, Just wanting to cover all bases before I go and mess things up.

 

That one might be a challenge - I'd soak it with PB Blaster and use a long wrench to break it loose. Be sure to use more PB Blaster than brute force - those inlet tubes tend to get rusty, and are hard to find if you break it.

Remove it first, then back out the bolts holding the EGR. Pick up a new gasket (they're about $1) before you get started.

I'd think TB cleaner is TB cleaner... Spray it out well inside (once it's off you'll see where it gets gummed up) basically the inlet (bottom) end, and the outlet (where it flows into the intake mani). I wouldn't worry about the diaphragm - just get inside the valve itself.

While it's off, check the orifice where the EGR mounts to the intake manifold. That is usually blocked up pretty well, and it won't help to clean the valve if the orifice is blocked anyway. You might need a small screwdriver to chisel some crud outta there.

Might also check the vacuum lines to be sure you don't just have a cracked line. Starting fluid works well - just spray it on the lines/fittings while the engine idles and listen for an increase in rpm. If you get the increase, you have a bad vac line. Starting fluid leaves a residue, so some folks use a propane torch (opened up without being lit) to do the same thing.

 

The carb cleaner won't hurt the rubber.

 

I appreciate the info, now all I need is alittle free time to get things cleaned up.

There should be a premaintenance procedure to help reduce build up within the EGR. Then again, I guess im lucky to have gone thus far without more serious problems.... Knock on Wood

Ill spray alittle PB on the slip bolt the next couple days. Maybe by the time I get a chance to get things rolling, It will have loosened its grip alittle.

I have a whole list of things I would like to take care of but my main goal now is to be code free once again.
Is there any other parts to clean that will help put alittle more umph back into an old engine?

That would make a great sticky. Parts list to clean and the DIY instructions. If not already been done.

 

Aside from a good thorough tune-up (air filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, oil, oil filter) which you may have already done, you're just about there!