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I have a pair of F150Leds.com reverse cube lights. I love them, but the connector picture below seems to be going bad. I remove the light, squeeze the connector, and they work again for another couple weeks. Has anyone else found a good splice connector for 16awg (estimate) to 22awg cable on a BLIS tail light? I was looking at the t-tap connectors but I question the 16-to-22 conversion.
I would do a military splice, solder the connection and cover with either liquid electrical tape or depin the connector one at a time a slide marine heat shrink over the connection.
All those connector do is cut into your wires !! Eventually they will break & otherwise fail & you will pull your hair out finding the problem.
Use a quality crimp connector & even better solder all joints plus using a shrink type outer seal....
I will have to agree with using a quality crimp connection. I like to use bare butt splices and marine grade heat shrink (has hot glue inside to seal the connection). It sounds like you have had corrosion start to form in your wires and the best bet (especially if you see salted roads in the winter) is to cut out all of the corroding copper and splice in fresh/ clean copper and seal the connections with quality marine grade heat shrink. If I have it available I like to also dab liquid electrical tape on the ends of my heat shrink after they cool, kind of a belt and suspenders approach. If you are experienced at soldering that is hands down the best splice to make but if you do it wrong it will be worse, so unless your good at it just use bare butt splices.
for proper waterproofing and protection. Shrink wrap is great, but most of it is not resistant to fuels, including the stuff sold at auto parts and home repair stores.
I use marine butt splice connectors. My dads been working boats in miami for 30+ years and this is what he uses too. Pretty much butt splice with built in heat shrink. Never had any issues with this stuff. Crimp and heat with heat gun or butane torch.