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I've looked at this for a while too. I'm about to purchase a fishing kayak or canoe ... I'm shopping models now.
I first looked at options that would give me both a tonneau and a rack, but decided I didn't want a rack on the truck all the time. For my tonneau, I went with an Extang Trifecta, which is extremely light and easy to remove/re-install without tools. I don't rely on my tonneau for security. Instead, I've invested in a couple of large waterproof, dustproof, lockable Pelican cases for valuables, which I cable and lock to the bed tie-downs. I plan to remove the tonneau when using the rack so I have easy access to the Pelicans and to tying down the PWCs.
For my rack, I'm thinking about going with the Yakima 300 Outdoorsman. It's rated for 300 pounds and can be installed and removed quickly.
Why can't you just use a rubber shim under the rail mounts to account for the stupid FORD channels in the cap?
That's what I thought about doing. I honestly haven't put much more thought into this in a while. I saw some diagram of what the bed rails look like under the cap, with holes everywhere and I am nervous about drilling holes in a certain spot and missing the bed rail. Also there is no easy access that I can see to get up under the bed rail to bolt anything on, so not sure if I would use screws, rivets, or what. And to be honest my actual need for this is pretty slim, just thought it might be a nice discreet way of being able to load my kayaks and keeping my cover closed, without having to throw them up on the roof.
Im thinking hard about the Thule/Tracrac system with the rails that rest in the bedrail pockets. It seems to me that a shim of rubber or plastic would insure that the rail would mount square on the '16 plastic cap. Then the Thule sliding rack so that it doesn't interfere with the cover. Thing with that is, I dont want the rack to be that high. I need it just high enough that the cover (MX4) would be able to fold without hitting it. I would like it adjustable, but would settle for having a fabricator cut it down and weld it. At full height I can't go into my parking structure. Barely fit as it is.
Here's another option if you don't want to limit yourself on tonneau choice. This Rhino-rack combines a single crossbar across the cab with a tall but adjustable T-bar attached to the hitch receiver. Completely independent of the bed. Thule has a similar version but the Rhino-rack hitch bar tilts down to help load a kayak or canoe.
This is kind of what I was planning on doing, except maybe making a custom headache rack that uses the front stake pockets and maybe 2 holes in the bed rail - I haven't looked into it yet. I plan on doing it next summer before my annual camping / canoeing trip in Maine. Only thing about the bed extender is you can't open the gate with it on, and my tonneau only opens when the gate is open. I may do an all custom stake pocket front and rear rack... I built a custom one for my avalanche a few years back out of 2" fence post from home depot- cost about $60 and an afternoon to build
this one I made to slide on the factory tonneau cover- I used it several times, then sold it for more than I had into it for materials, and the guy that bought it uses it as a ladder rack for his business.
Something I read while doing my research is that the cab and the bed move/flex independently when the vehicle is in motion. I forget where I read it, but they recommended against a bed/roof top combo. Probably not an issue on a Ridgeline or Avalanche, but would apply to tradition PU trucks.
Something I read while doing my research is that the cab and the bed move/flex independently when the vehicle is in motion. I forget where I read it, but they recommended against a bed/roof top combo. Probably not an issue on a Ridgeline or Avalanche, but would apply to tradition PU trucks.
I agree thats why I want to do all stake pockets with extenders to go out past the edge of the tonneau- I think most of the weight will still be right on the bed rails anyway as the rails go beyond the tonneau like 2 inches on each side.
It works fine. I drove my truck like this on vacation for 3 hours each way. 2 of which were at highway speeds. Both items were bought of etrailer. Darby quick rack and a bed extender. The rack while it didn't move, is a bit noisy moving around at times. I've been watching craigslist. I want to buy a thule aero blade set up and only use "half" of it in place of my darby rack. That will be perfect in my opinion. For short drives around town or down to the beach on vacation, I just convert the bed extender and load it the way you see in the second picture.
That's a great solution. I didn't realize the extender could be converted like that. I was looking at Rhino-racks T-bar and I'm not sure it goes horizontal. They do have a good "half-set" of roof racks BTW if you are looking to replace your Darby. I agree ... the Thule roof rack is super nice.
[QUOTE=doolin64;4921739]Here's my solution.
It works fine. I drove my truck like this on vacation for 3 hours each way. 2 of which were at highway speeds. Both items were bought of etrailer. Darby quick rack and a bed extender. The rack while it didn't move, is a bit noisy moving around at times. I've been watching craigslist. I want to buy a thule aero blade set up and only use "half" of it in place of my darby rack. That will be perfect in my opinion. For short drives around town or down to the beach on vacation, I just convert the bed extender and load it the way you see in the second picture.
08-28-2016, 12:21 AM
