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Yes, you have to transfer it over. You drill out those rivets to get it out. The bottom piece of the mesh has a plastic piece that clips into slots on the track itself. I use a small flat head to pop them loose, it's easy once you see how they click in there.
You'll have to source the 2 rivets from somewhere to reinstall it. Ford doesn't offer them. I've never found any that exact size, and all my Ford dealers have these black aluminum rivets that are just a hair larger, so I just slightly enlarge the hole in the track and use those.
I notice in your pics, the rivet holding the back of the plastic mount piece is in backwards. Someone installed it from the bottom, which isn't how it is supposed to go, and that has put a crack in the mount piece. Will probably be okay, but if that's the old track you need to put the rivet in from the top.
Unless you'd already drilled the head off the rivet there, but they look like they're in upside down. There's no reason for those plastic pieces they hold down to be cracked otherwise.
Yes, you have to transfer it over. You drill out those rivets to get it out. The bottom piece of the mesh has a plastic piece that clips into slots on the track itself. I use a small flat head to pop them loose, it's easy once you see how they click in there.
You'll have to source the 2 rivets from somewhere to reinstall it. Ford doesn't offer them. I've never found any that exact size, and all my Ford dealers have these black aluminum rivets that are just a hair larger, so I just slightly enlarge the hole in the track and use those.
I notice in your pics, the rivet holding the back of the plastic mount piece is in backwards. Someone installed it from the bottom, which isn't how it is supposed to go, and that has put a crack in the mount piece. Will probably be okay, but if that's the old track you need to put the rivet in from the top.
Unless you'd already drilled the head off the rivet there, but they look like they're in upside down. There's no reason for those plastic pieces they hold down to be cracked otherwise.
thanks for the clarifications. I’ve already got the mesh piece popped off but sounds like I’ll need to drill it out to get the rivet out. Installing that into the new track with a rivet gun seems sketchy to me since I already have it fully installed in the truck with the glass in too. 😵💫
thanks for the clarifications. I’ve already got the mesh piece popped off but sounds like I’ll need to drill it out to get the rivet out. Installing that into the new track with a rivet gun seems sketchy to me since I already have it fully installed in the truck with the glass in too. 😵💫
Maybe I can use some jbweld to keep it in place…
You can just open the glass. You can get right to it that way. The guides are totally out of the way. I used to put the shade in last, because I didn't want to disturb the factory placement of the guides as they come in the "closed" position, but I found it was far easier to just move them out of the way before I transferred the motors over and put the deflector in while the track was out.
That was also before I found these aluminum rivets, which are far easier to install, they take a lot less grip power to pop them. I was using steel ones prior, and those are a **** to squeeze when you're trying to do it in the truck and reaching over into the opening.
But it's no problem getting to them when it's in the truck. Just open the glass fully, and everything is right there.
Did you take a video of how to manually open sunshade?
Not specifically for the shade, but I do have one on how to manually move the lower guides by removing the sunroof motor. You could do the same thing with the shade by dropping the the shade motor. It's literally right next to the sunroof motor so just watch that video and just drop the other motor to move the shade. Just be careful with the shade where you grab it. Don't grab it by the middle cross bar, grab it at the edges and try to move them exactly in sync with each other. Those pieces are fragile
Anybody know a trick to get the pano sunshade to open when the buttons are non-responsive?
I am familiar with the reset/calibration process and have done it successfully in the past, when I had to change the arms... that is not working... I get no response from the sunshade open and close buttons, the vent button, or the roof open button... the close button results in some motor sound but no movement (the roof is closed).
I have a leak that I am trying to troubleshoot and suspect the roof drains are clogged (not coming from the drain lines or sat antenna, but it seems to be over-topping the sunroof pan, but since I can't get the shade open I can't get a look at what is actually happening from anywhere but under the headliner...
I also have the issue that the sunroof itself has become non-responsive (worked fine after replacing the arms a few months ago) until all of a sudden no-go...
I am having the same issue... could you please let me know what was the issue for the other buttons and moonroof became inoperable.
Thanks a lot
Hector
Replacement part has finally arrived - 3 weeks after I ordered it. Local Ford parts dept had it in stock but for $500 more. I’ve got the back glass out and all the bolts removed, and even snapped the small black clips out from the front 3 holes. Unfortunately I’m still stuck at this point - I can’t pull the frame out.
pics below…
Hey I was just reading your post about the sunroof repair you did , just wondering how you were able to remove the rear glass without removing the frame first ?
